By: Kelen
Source: Traveljournals.net
When planning our big adventure, we never discussed Bhutan. It really wasn't on the radar of countries we thought to visit. We had booked tickets through to India, and from there we hoped to head to Nepal for some serious trekking through the Himalayas, and after that onto Southeast Asia. But as you might know from reading our India journal, a successful campaign by our parents against travel to Nepal convinced us to change our plans. That's when the idea of Bhutan started coming into focus. We knew we wanted to trek, and many Nepal trekking companies lead tours in Bhutan. So we started researching the country and our options.
One of the more surprising and possibly challenging things we learned at the outset is that Bhutan requires you book your trip through a tour company and pay a daily tariff of two hundred dollars each. Such a steep price tag for such an elusive country meant our stay would be limited. We needed a program that highlighted Bhutan's cultural and natural attractions in the shortest time possible. So we booked an eight day excursion that provided us with a guide, a driver and time for a three day mountain trek.
Bhutan, the Land of the Thunder Dragon, is landlocked by Tibet, China and India. It's compared to Switzerland for size and natural beauty, including snow capped peaks, rolling hills, mountain goats (AND men who wear argyle socks). The government enforces a strict environmental policy of protecting at least 60 percent of the nation's forests: currently they dedicate more than 70 percent to wilderness. As a result, hundreds of exotic species of plants and animals are flourishing in this pristeen environment. We came to learn that this tiny kingdom held the greatest bio-diversity acre for acre in all of Asia.
Our journey to Bhutan began after more than a month in India. We entered through the Bhutan Gate on the Indian border in Jaigon. We had just left a country hemmoraging with a billion people for one with barely 700,000 people: we noticed the solitude immediately. Without interruption or offers from taxi or tuk-tuk drivers, we walked to meet our guide and driver at the Druk Hotel. We enjoyed a relaxing lunch in an empty air-conditioned restaurant, then climbed into a sparkling deluxe SUV for a six hour drive to the capital, Thimpu. As we soon learned, travel through Bhutan is best done in a comfy SUV, because roads are the only option for cross-country travel on one national highway.
We bumped along the road realizing that our 180 kilometer drive would provide a wonderful introduction to the amazing Bhutanese scenery. The lush mountainside was breathtaking. We marveled at the endless terraced hills planted with the main staple (and Indian export) rice. Our guide pointed out the many large pointed clay structures dotting the hills. The memorial stupas or chortens contain religious artifacts or information about the deceased. Flowing around the chortens are Bhuddist prayer flags. Our guide, Sangay explained there are always 108, either colored flags symbolizing good luck or all white signifying a recent death.
Almost 70 percent of Bhutan's population practices a special kind of Bhuddism called Mahayana. The mission is to live in harmony with the complexities and mysteries of nature. This plays out in their commitment to protecting the environment. For example, people are less likely to pollute the water if they believe that a certain spirit may inhabit a lake or stream. Likewise, because killing animals for food is also against their religion, many people either don't eat meat or they buy it from non-Bhuddists.
Religion touches all aspects of Bhutanese life, as we learned from visiting a college where young people were mastering traditional arts. Every carving, clay statue and silk embroidery mirrored centuries old Tibetan Bhuddist imagery. Graduates are hired to restore the old temples or dzongs, or to construct new temples based on the ancient traditions. Most Bhutanese architecture is highlighted with the unique carvings of the dharma wheel of life or sacred Lotus flower. As we traveled throughout the western part of the country we saw many examples of old and new religious architecture.
Our travels in Bhutan showed us that not a lot has changed over time. The weekend market which flourished hundreds of years ago as a way for farmers to sell their crops continues to this day. Alongside the slender stalks of asparagus, they now sell beautiful handicrafts. In the capital city, we saw many young people sporting western style clothing, but just as common were others wearing the traditional Bhutanese garb.
Men wear a Gho which looks like a knee-length robe with a pouch in the front in which they can store a myriad things - think Mary Poppins' carpet bag and you get the idea. Usually the Gho is accompanied by argyle soxes and leather shoes. Women wear a Kira, a floor length dress of cotton that wraps around their waist, over a blouse and is secured at the shoulder with a large pin. The Bhutanese are required to wear the national dress to school; if they have a government job; visit monasteries; national museums or monuments; attend festivals or when attending to any offical business.
Once we began our trek into the wilderness, the passage of time was even harder to see. So many of the farmhouses built three hundred years ago are still in use today. The ground floor is kept for the farm animals. The second floor for food storage and the third floor houses the family. During our trek, we passed many crumbling farmhouses being restored.
Our trek of three days, two nights began in the Gangte valley. We started walking in a lush valley but soon the trail switched to sloping blue pine forest. The steep mountainside was highlighted with a variety of blooming rhododendrons, purple primula, and yellow and white magnolias. We were surprised by how quickly the trail became a challenge. The quick change in elevation and the zig-zagging back and forth (going from 9,500 feet to a little over 11,000 feet) made us breathless. We were proud but exhausted upon reaching the prayer flags marking Tsele La.
Trekking in Bhutan is unlike any form of hiking or camping either of us had ever done. First, everything was carried for us - our packs; the tents; the food were all strapped to the backs of horses and one very strong horsewoman (who was punished with carrying part of the load because her horse ran away the night before). We were responsible for our day packs with water, a camera, sunscreen and our lunch (hardly a load). When we reached the campsite our tents were set up, the cook was preparing our food and all we had to do was roll out our sleeping bags. There was our two person tent, a kitchen tent, dining tent and a toilet tent. Once Sangay dug a hole and hung a roll of t.p.: presto, a bathroom.
We reached camp by climbing to a mountain pass and then walking back down into another valley. All of our campsites were in the valley. The first night we were beside a small stream, and the next day in the middle of a cow pasture where the curious locals would wander over and stare. After a day of trekking for 15 kilometers through the meadows and mountains, we were perfectly happy to accept tea with biscuits and later enjoy a delicious candlelit dinner for two.
Our meals in Bhutan consisted of the same few ingredients - potato, rice and different kinds of vegetables. At the times we ate in hotels, the dishes were closer to Indian food: emphasizing starch and a lot of curry. Bhutanese food is based around the main staple of rice and hot peppers. Although they worry westerns can't handle spicy food so hot food comes only by request. Most of our meals consisted of a starch or 2, stir fried vegetables and sometimes pork or chicken and dessert. One particularly memorable meal was devoted to starch - tofu (for protein), pasta, potatoes and rice. Each morning on the trek, we woke to the sound of roosters crowing or cows being led to pasture. Sangay served us tea in our tent, gave us warm water for bathing and served us a hearty breakfast.
The final morning of our trek, the cook served our favorite breakfast - freshly cut french fries, eggs and toast with peanut butter (a rarity in Asia) and of course, tea. Just as breakfast was finishing, there was a great commotion on the far side of the meadow from our camp. A farmer was leading his cows to pasture and one of the bulls got mad at another bull and broke rank to attack. The other bull, sensing the attack, also broke rank and the two charged eachother locking horns as they clashed. This greatly upset the farmer who quickly tried to keep his remaining cows from joining the trouble. The two bulls with locked horns continued to drift closer to our campsite. We jumped up from the breakfast table to watch the bull fight play out. The bulls were coming so close that Sangay was worried they might decide to charge us. Just when it looked like both bulls were running towards us, the weaker of the two backed down. He retreated and the other one ran off. In the end, the farmer got his cows back in line and everyone enjoyed a little morning excitement.
Our final day of trekking was less challenging than the first, aside from the addition of hot sun and flies. Walking carefully down the steep mountainside, we watched young Bhutanese farmers bent over their fields as they transplanted rice. We both agreed that three days was the perfect length for a trek. We were lucky that the weather was warm, not too hot, and that rain hadn't thwarted our efforts by muddying the trail, which is common in springtime. We also agreed that by deciding to trek in Bhutan we had a very unique opportunity: to experience how a part of the world in many ways avoids the influences of the modern society which is beaconing just across the border. With only about 5,000 visitors a year, it will take awhile longer before the 21st century makes an impact on Bhutan's way of life.
Our final night in Bhutan we requested a traditional Bhutanese style meal complete with hot chillies. Sangay was happy to oblige. He arranged for us to eat at a local restaurant run by a sweet young couple. For the first time during our stay, Sangay and the driver, Preem joined us at dinner. The homestyle meal was served in the couple's sitting room. They prepared simple yet fresh and delicious food - steamed asparagus, red Bhutanese rice, dried beef with spinach, and dried and fresh chillies with cheese, and lots of tea. Just as the husband was refilling our cups, the electricity went out. Moments later his wife appeared with two candles sticking out of pop bottles.
After we ate our fill, Sangay reached into the pouch of his Gho and presented us with evaluation forms and parting gifts from him and Preem - two white satin prayer shawls. They told us the scarves were gifts for good luck because they contained eight auspicious symbols and would protect us on our travels. This was also their way of saying they hoped we had a good trip, were happy with his services and enjoyed our experience. We told him he was a wonderful guide and that we had had an amazing adventure. Then he added, "you come here for culture and nature. Of course our country doesn't have the same things that you have in your country, but your country doesn't have the same things offered with a visit to our country." Sangay's words ring true and we only hope that the uniqueness of his tiny kingdom remains unspoiled for future generations.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Bhutan Welcomes Visitors, Just Not Too Many and Too Poor
Source: VOA News
By Steve Herman
Thimphu, Bhutan
21 May 2007
To the outside world the small Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan is regarded as a modern-day Shangri-La. Nestled along the eastern side of the Himalayas, wedged between Tibet and India, Bhutan sees few outsiders. And the country likes it that way as it attempts to preserve its fragile culture and ecology. That has prompted Bhutan to strictly regulate tourism. But as VOA's Steve Herman reports from Thimpu, it is possible for anyone with enough money and determination to visit.
Here people call their nation Druk Yul - land of the thunder dragon. The sights and sounds of its deep connection to Tibetan Buddhism are evident just about anywhere a visitor goes.
A religious musician, playing the jaling oboe, dressed in the traditional knee-length gown and huge white cuffs worn by most Bhutanese men is just one example of why this country the size of Switzerland is so appealing to travelers.
The country is permeated with fortresses, known as dzongs, and monasteries. The air is crisp and clean, the views of mountains breathtaking. What Bhutan lacks in high-end tourist infrastructure it makes up in courtesy, safety and cleanliness, especially compared to other major regional destinations.
Yet, Bhutan remains one of international tourism's best-kept secrets. It attracts less than 20,000 tourists a year, not including thousands more Indians, here on business or holiday, who do not need a visa to visit.
The head of the association representing Bhutan's 290 tour operators, Sonam Dorji, says the myth persists that the country is virtually off-limits to visitors. Tourists have been welcomed since 1974. But Dorji says there will be no attempt to undertake a mass-marketing campaign, unlike Bhutan's neighbors against which it competes for tourist revenue.
"By not marketing we still remain exclusive and a very mysterious country," he said. "We don't have any limits of arrivals. As long as they pay $180 per night, they are welcome."
That may sound like a steep price, but it includes accommodations, meals, guides and transportation.
Most visitors come for the trekking, bird watching or just to absorb the unique culture of this deeply religious and agrarian society. Many typical tourist pursuits, however, are off-limits, such as mountain climbing or recreational fishing. Local people consider their mountains sacred and inhabited by deities. Fishing for sport also violates religious sensibilities.
Dorji, head of the Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators, says religious values cannot be compromised in the name of increasing tourism.
"Buddhist religion overall is just like to protect even the environment, the sentient beings, all living beings. And we believe that even a tree has a soul. So that's the part which has influenced the tourism policy," added Dorji.
There is a fierce determination here to protect the environment. After all, it is natural resources which provide Bhutan with its primary source of revenue - sales of hydro-electric power to its energy-hungry neighbor, India. Tourism is the top source of hard currency.
Although tourism officials say Bhutan can absorb tens of thousands more visitors per year, if they come during the off-season, there is a fear that making it less costly for outsiders to visit could easily swamp this country of less than 700,000 people.
"Being small, you cannot be careless. We cannot promote and develop normal type of tourism here because we simply do not have the carrying capacity. We have, yes, rich culture, living culture, ancient culture, but they're still very fragile," said former ambassador Lhatu Wangchuk, the director general of Bhutan's department of tourism.
Those who do visit are warmly welcomed. Wangchuk believes that is because experience with well-healed visitors, who tend to be older and highly educated, has had a "very positive" impact on Bhutanese people and their culture.
"It is the tourists who have been educating the Bhutanese. We get tourists who are well traveled, tourists who are very sensitive to other countries' culture, their way of life. And therefore we've been made more aware of the value of our own culture," continued Wangchuk.
But there is a bit of trouble in paradise. There are complaints that the modest number of trekkers are damaging Bhutan's environment, leaving behind litter and eroding habitat in a country where three-quarters of the land is unspoiled forest.
In the few cities, such as the capital of Thimpu, and Paro, where the main airport is located, packs of stray dogs wander the streets barking loudly at night and garbage disposal is an increasing problem.
But most Bhutanese, such as this elderly monk chanting Tibetan prayers on the sidewalk, remain unfazed by the modest number of outsiders and the potential benefits or problems they bring.
As Bhutanese are apt to exclaim, drawing on centuries of Buddhist wisdom, the only thing that is constant is change. They believe that their values and the wisdom of their enlightened leaders in a country now shifting from absolute monarchy to parliamentary democracy will prevail and allow their way of life to be preserved.
By Steve Herman
Thimphu, Bhutan
21 May 2007
To the outside world the small Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan is regarded as a modern-day Shangri-La. Nestled along the eastern side of the Himalayas, wedged between Tibet and India, Bhutan sees few outsiders. And the country likes it that way as it attempts to preserve its fragile culture and ecology. That has prompted Bhutan to strictly regulate tourism. But as VOA's Steve Herman reports from Thimpu, it is possible for anyone with enough money and determination to visit.
Here people call their nation Druk Yul - land of the thunder dragon. The sights and sounds of its deep connection to Tibetan Buddhism are evident just about anywhere a visitor goes.
A religious musician, playing the jaling oboe, dressed in the traditional knee-length gown and huge white cuffs worn by most Bhutanese men is just one example of why this country the size of Switzerland is so appealing to travelers.
The country is permeated with fortresses, known as dzongs, and monasteries. The air is crisp and clean, the views of mountains breathtaking. What Bhutan lacks in high-end tourist infrastructure it makes up in courtesy, safety and cleanliness, especially compared to other major regional destinations.
Yet, Bhutan remains one of international tourism's best-kept secrets. It attracts less than 20,000 tourists a year, not including thousands more Indians, here on business or holiday, who do not need a visa to visit.
The head of the association representing Bhutan's 290 tour operators, Sonam Dorji, says the myth persists that the country is virtually off-limits to visitors. Tourists have been welcomed since 1974. But Dorji says there will be no attempt to undertake a mass-marketing campaign, unlike Bhutan's neighbors against which it competes for tourist revenue.
"By not marketing we still remain exclusive and a very mysterious country," he said. "We don't have any limits of arrivals. As long as they pay $180 per night, they are welcome."
That may sound like a steep price, but it includes accommodations, meals, guides and transportation.
Most visitors come for the trekking, bird watching or just to absorb the unique culture of this deeply religious and agrarian society. Many typical tourist pursuits, however, are off-limits, such as mountain climbing or recreational fishing. Local people consider their mountains sacred and inhabited by deities. Fishing for sport also violates religious sensibilities.
Dorji, head of the Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators, says religious values cannot be compromised in the name of increasing tourism.
"Buddhist religion overall is just like to protect even the environment, the sentient beings, all living beings. And we believe that even a tree has a soul. So that's the part which has influenced the tourism policy," added Dorji.
There is a fierce determination here to protect the environment. After all, it is natural resources which provide Bhutan with its primary source of revenue - sales of hydro-electric power to its energy-hungry neighbor, India. Tourism is the top source of hard currency.
Although tourism officials say Bhutan can absorb tens of thousands more visitors per year, if they come during the off-season, there is a fear that making it less costly for outsiders to visit could easily swamp this country of less than 700,000 people.
"Being small, you cannot be careless. We cannot promote and develop normal type of tourism here because we simply do not have the carrying capacity. We have, yes, rich culture, living culture, ancient culture, but they're still very fragile," said former ambassador Lhatu Wangchuk, the director general of Bhutan's department of tourism.
Those who do visit are warmly welcomed. Wangchuk believes that is because experience with well-healed visitors, who tend to be older and highly educated, has had a "very positive" impact on Bhutanese people and their culture.
"It is the tourists who have been educating the Bhutanese. We get tourists who are well traveled, tourists who are very sensitive to other countries' culture, their way of life. And therefore we've been made more aware of the value of our own culture," continued Wangchuk.
But there is a bit of trouble in paradise. There are complaints that the modest number of trekkers are damaging Bhutan's environment, leaving behind litter and eroding habitat in a country where three-quarters of the land is unspoiled forest.
In the few cities, such as the capital of Thimpu, and Paro, where the main airport is located, packs of stray dogs wander the streets barking loudly at night and garbage disposal is an increasing problem.
But most Bhutanese, such as this elderly monk chanting Tibetan prayers on the sidewalk, remain unfazed by the modest number of outsiders and the potential benefits or problems they bring.
As Bhutanese are apt to exclaim, drawing on centuries of Buddhist wisdom, the only thing that is constant is change. They believe that their values and the wisdom of their enlightened leaders in a country now shifting from absolute monarchy to parliamentary democracy will prevail and allow their way of life to be preserved.
Friday, June 1, 2007
Journey to The Land of the Dragon: Bhutan
Contributed by: Joshua G Shafran on 12/21/2006
Source: Boulder>YourHub
When does a significant travel moment occur? It is the instant when an experience remains as an indelible imprint, and lasts forever.
Trekking in Bhutan, this past November, was a continuous series of "travel moments." It was and remains a destination unlike any other.
The location, the people, their culture, lifestyle and the experiences I had there are very unique in adventure travel. For three weeks, I trekked with eleven other clients, two guides, thirteen support staff and thirty-one Mongolian pack ponies through villages, towns, cities and on outback yak trader trails. We experienced the complexity and beauty of what has been called, "...the last Buddhist Kingdom, or Druk Yal, The Dragon Kingdom."
Bhutan is a landscape of jungle and high mountains. It is about the size of Switzerland. The largest city, Thimphu, the capital, is about 50,000 people. The northern border is Tibet. The country is surrounded by regions of India. Nepal is west of Bhutan.
I traveled through a small area of the mountain region, on what is called the Chomolhari Trek. It is an ancient yak traders' route that varies from 7,500 feet altitude to a base camp at just above 13,000 feet. We hiked over 100 miles in nine days, and traversed over 50,000 vertical feet through undulating ups and downs. From our base camp we trekked up mountain passes to view some of the 20,000 plus foot peaks of this Himalayan region. Two of these mountains are spiritual locations called Chomolhari, and Jichu Drakye (both at 24,000 feet and above). No permits are granted by the Bhutanese government to climb these mountains. Many of the peaks, in fact, are unnamed.
The variety and beauty of the land is amazing. We started out in foothill forest and pasture land somewhat resembling Colorado foothills. We hiked past farmland that grows alternate crops of Bhutanese red rice and wheat. Beet, onion, potato, bean and corn was also seen being harvested. November is early to mid Fall in this region of Bhutan. No one appears hungry.
Their multi-generational homes are large, incorporating animals, people and storage in one structure on three levels.
We stopped in villages and visited schools. The kids seemed happy, and the teachers were engaged just like in our neighborhood schools. There are local elementary schools, where kids walk up to forty-five minutes to get there. Students travel further to high school. Education is demanded. Communication is not a problem for English speakers. Most people I met speak English. It is taught in public schools. There is over 90% literacy in Bhutan.
Our trek was an adventure. At our 13,000 foot base camp we experienced a two day mountain snow storm. Some higher mountain passes were blocked. Our guides arranged for us to stay with one of the mountain multi-generational families in the region.
Bhutanese people are graciously accepting of outsiders. Imagine opening your door to a dozen strangers for two nights. We were very fortunate to be welcomed, and taken in by a four generation family. It was a true lesson in just plain old fashioned human kindness. There was a lot of curiosity between our host family and the group. This was another "travel moment" that linked people to people.
Bhutan is a stunning country. When the snow storm cleared the blue high altitude sky, and white mountain peaks were humbling. It was the first time, I experienced 20,000 plus foot mountains. Not to take away from our Colorado 14ers, these mountains are expansive and immense in scale, size and grandeur. Talk about feeling small in relation to the rest of nature. This type of landscape truly reminded me of the concept of natural insignificance. This was a significant "travel moment."
Bhutan's social complexity is as convoluted a mosaic, as is the geography. From approximately 744A.D. to the present the country has evolved into a small, close knit group of people, tied together by a common set of complex Tantric Buddhist philosophy, beliefs and practices. We hiked to and visited a number of dzongs (fortress-like citadel temples), and monasteries used as schools for monks, taught by lamas (teachers). Our visits to one monastery, called Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest) was a spiritual "travel moment." It is here that Buddhism came to Bhutan.
Though the peoples' religion is ancient, a 21st century way of life is evolving quite rapidly. This is experienced in most places. The same people who herd Yaks, use outhouses, have minimal running water and grow most food on family plots, have solar voltaic systems, and occasionally have satellite dishes . In cities internet cafes are available. While some aspects of life seem very high tech, there are other patterns of life that border on very ancient social practices.
Between two major cities, Paro and Thimphu, the connecting mountain road is being expanded. Here was a "travel moment." Bhutan workers are not building the road. The labor force for this road work is imported from Bangladesh.
As we drove by in the comfort of a new Nissan van, we saw these workers labor by hand on the highway. Women use dangerous looking roadside equipment to grind large granite blocks into gravel for the roadbed. Shirtless, the men shovel gravel and sand, and steamy vats of asphalt/tar is mixed, to be spread by hand power over the roadbed, to be graded and flattened by old looking roller machines. The workers live by the road they are working on. As we drove into Thimphu at sunset we saw workers going home to their temporary housing carrying wood for heat and cooking. We were told by our local guide that their lives were better than they would have in Bangladesh. Obviously our western concept of life and labor practices has not entered this part of our world. We were told this outsourcing for labor is good for Bhutan, and is good for Bangladesh. I have not been to Bangladesh to judge this comment, though I remain with obvious questions. This is one example of a culture where the King has decided how "to play the world" for the good of his people.
He has decided how to accept or not accept assistance and advise from other countries. I learned that the King, with his advisors, make the decisions. For example he has been able to "play" the Chinese and Indian "cards."
For example, during our mountain trek we visited Indian soldiers, at Indian military outposts, stationed in Bhutan, guarding the Bhutan region from India. We hiked past trail junctions that lead to Tibet, and met Tibetan and Bhutanese traders peacefully practicing commerce between the two regions. Officially we were told that China has no formal trade relations with Bhutan. All packaged goods sold in general stores in Bhutan is labeled, "made in India."
This is all scheduled to evolve with general democratic elections by 2008. Recently the King passed his authority to his eldest son. The King is "loved" by the people. They have been comfortable with their King/people relations. They are concerned about community based decision process, we call democracy, and that we take for granted.
Discussing, with the locals, the potential and process of local decision making was a wonderful part my "travel moments." Since they have no experience with democracy the people do not know what democratic practices will mean to their lives. Only those Bhutanese who have studied in other countries like ours have experience with democracy first hand. It will be interesting to observe what happens, and what direction this social evolution will take.
The interaction between tourist and locals is having an enormous influence on this once isolated country. Lessons were learned, and information between cultures was exchanged. This was the true "travel moment"; the experience of the democratization of a country through open communication, between tourist and local. A last "travel moment" comment...The Bhutanese King is planning for governmental democratic change...the people are doing this through their interaction with one group of "invaders" tourists...once again the people change faster than government ...without possibly knowing it the government has to catch up to the people.
The land, culture, society, and people of Bhutan are beautiful. They are kind, gracious, sensitive, compassionate, open, fair-minded and committed. Their world is changing fast. The "travel moments" I left with from this adventure will significantly remain for a lifetime.
Source: Boulder>YourHub
When does a significant travel moment occur? It is the instant when an experience remains as an indelible imprint, and lasts forever.
Trekking in Bhutan, this past November, was a continuous series of "travel moments." It was and remains a destination unlike any other.
The location, the people, their culture, lifestyle and the experiences I had there are very unique in adventure travel. For three weeks, I trekked with eleven other clients, two guides, thirteen support staff and thirty-one Mongolian pack ponies through villages, towns, cities and on outback yak trader trails. We experienced the complexity and beauty of what has been called, "...the last Buddhist Kingdom, or Druk Yal, The Dragon Kingdom."
Bhutan is a landscape of jungle and high mountains. It is about the size of Switzerland. The largest city, Thimphu, the capital, is about 50,000 people. The northern border is Tibet. The country is surrounded by regions of India. Nepal is west of Bhutan.
I traveled through a small area of the mountain region, on what is called the Chomolhari Trek. It is an ancient yak traders' route that varies from 7,500 feet altitude to a base camp at just above 13,000 feet. We hiked over 100 miles in nine days, and traversed over 50,000 vertical feet through undulating ups and downs. From our base camp we trekked up mountain passes to view some of the 20,000 plus foot peaks of this Himalayan region. Two of these mountains are spiritual locations called Chomolhari, and Jichu Drakye (both at 24,000 feet and above). No permits are granted by the Bhutanese government to climb these mountains. Many of the peaks, in fact, are unnamed.
The variety and beauty of the land is amazing. We started out in foothill forest and pasture land somewhat resembling Colorado foothills. We hiked past farmland that grows alternate crops of Bhutanese red rice and wheat. Beet, onion, potato, bean and corn was also seen being harvested. November is early to mid Fall in this region of Bhutan. No one appears hungry.
Their multi-generational homes are large, incorporating animals, people and storage in one structure on three levels.
We stopped in villages and visited schools. The kids seemed happy, and the teachers were engaged just like in our neighborhood schools. There are local elementary schools, where kids walk up to forty-five minutes to get there. Students travel further to high school. Education is demanded. Communication is not a problem for English speakers. Most people I met speak English. It is taught in public schools. There is over 90% literacy in Bhutan.
Our trek was an adventure. At our 13,000 foot base camp we experienced a two day mountain snow storm. Some higher mountain passes were blocked. Our guides arranged for us to stay with one of the mountain multi-generational families in the region.
Bhutanese people are graciously accepting of outsiders. Imagine opening your door to a dozen strangers for two nights. We were very fortunate to be welcomed, and taken in by a four generation family. It was a true lesson in just plain old fashioned human kindness. There was a lot of curiosity between our host family and the group. This was another "travel moment" that linked people to people.
Bhutan is a stunning country. When the snow storm cleared the blue high altitude sky, and white mountain peaks were humbling. It was the first time, I experienced 20,000 plus foot mountains. Not to take away from our Colorado 14ers, these mountains are expansive and immense in scale, size and grandeur. Talk about feeling small in relation to the rest of nature. This type of landscape truly reminded me of the concept of natural insignificance. This was a significant "travel moment."
Bhutan's social complexity is as convoluted a mosaic, as is the geography. From approximately 744A.D. to the present the country has evolved into a small, close knit group of people, tied together by a common set of complex Tantric Buddhist philosophy, beliefs and practices. We hiked to and visited a number of dzongs (fortress-like citadel temples), and monasteries used as schools for monks, taught by lamas (teachers). Our visits to one monastery, called Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest) was a spiritual "travel moment." It is here that Buddhism came to Bhutan.
Though the peoples' religion is ancient, a 21st century way of life is evolving quite rapidly. This is experienced in most places. The same people who herd Yaks, use outhouses, have minimal running water and grow most food on family plots, have solar voltaic systems, and occasionally have satellite dishes . In cities internet cafes are available. While some aspects of life seem very high tech, there are other patterns of life that border on very ancient social practices.
Between two major cities, Paro and Thimphu, the connecting mountain road is being expanded. Here was a "travel moment." Bhutan workers are not building the road. The labor force for this road work is imported from Bangladesh.
As we drove by in the comfort of a new Nissan van, we saw these workers labor by hand on the highway. Women use dangerous looking roadside equipment to grind large granite blocks into gravel for the roadbed. Shirtless, the men shovel gravel and sand, and steamy vats of asphalt/tar is mixed, to be spread by hand power over the roadbed, to be graded and flattened by old looking roller machines. The workers live by the road they are working on. As we drove into Thimphu at sunset we saw workers going home to their temporary housing carrying wood for heat and cooking. We were told by our local guide that their lives were better than they would have in Bangladesh. Obviously our western concept of life and labor practices has not entered this part of our world. We were told this outsourcing for labor is good for Bhutan, and is good for Bangladesh. I have not been to Bangladesh to judge this comment, though I remain with obvious questions. This is one example of a culture where the King has decided how "to play the world" for the good of his people.
He has decided how to accept or not accept assistance and advise from other countries. I learned that the King, with his advisors, make the decisions. For example he has been able to "play" the Chinese and Indian "cards."
For example, during our mountain trek we visited Indian soldiers, at Indian military outposts, stationed in Bhutan, guarding the Bhutan region from India. We hiked past trail junctions that lead to Tibet, and met Tibetan and Bhutanese traders peacefully practicing commerce between the two regions. Officially we were told that China has no formal trade relations with Bhutan. All packaged goods sold in general stores in Bhutan is labeled, "made in India."
This is all scheduled to evolve with general democratic elections by 2008. Recently the King passed his authority to his eldest son. The King is "loved" by the people. They have been comfortable with their King/people relations. They are concerned about community based decision process, we call democracy, and that we take for granted.
Discussing, with the locals, the potential and process of local decision making was a wonderful part my "travel moments." Since they have no experience with democracy the people do not know what democratic practices will mean to their lives. Only those Bhutanese who have studied in other countries like ours have experience with democracy first hand. It will be interesting to observe what happens, and what direction this social evolution will take.
The interaction between tourist and locals is having an enormous influence on this once isolated country. Lessons were learned, and information between cultures was exchanged. This was the true "travel moment"; the experience of the democratization of a country through open communication, between tourist and local. A last "travel moment" comment...The Bhutanese King is planning for governmental democratic change...the people are doing this through their interaction with one group of "invaders" tourists...once again the people change faster than government ...without possibly knowing it the government has to catch up to the people.
The land, culture, society, and people of Bhutan are beautiful. They are kind, gracious, sensitive, compassionate, open, fair-minded and committed. Their world is changing fast. The "travel moments" I left with from this adventure will significantly remain for a lifetime.
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