From: travelpod
Journey to mystical Bhutan, a stunning Himalayan kingdom lost in time and steeped in Buddhist traditions.
Nestled between China’s Tibet and India, Bhutan is an exotic kingdom steeped in Tantric Buddhism yet at the same time embracing, albeit ever so carefully, the trappings of modern technology. The place is a living ancient civilization, as if one has stepped back into the rich medieval age – with beautifully decorated chalet houses dotting the rolling green hills, colourful monasteries and prayer flags adorning the mountain sky line, friendly people in bright traditional costumes mixed with the crimson-robed monks – a culture that is reminiscent of Tibet yet so uniquely its own. At the same time, English is widely spoken and one can have ‘bizarre’ sightings of computers in the administrative quarters of the dzongs, the massive white fortress-like monasteries-cum-administration dominating each precinct.
Druk Yul, as the country is known to its inhabitants, has a sense of peace and orderliness under the protective tutelage of the current monarch, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck, an enlightened leader by all accounts. He has continued the modernization programme started by his father while steadfastly maintaining the policy of environmental conservation and the preservation of Bhutanese culture and tradition. In fact, the coronation of the King on 2nd June 1974 marked the first time that Bhutan opened to the world, with the international press being allowed into the country.
Today Bhutan is open to tourists with a budget strictly not of the shoestring variety, and provided the trips are kept within defined restrictions. This system of imposing high prices for the privilege of a glimpse into the protected land acts as a ‘natural’ cap on the number of visitors, the result of a deliberate policy to avoid the destructive effects of opening to all and sundry which was the experience of its illustrious neighbour, Nepal. The seemingly overzealous isolationist measure certainly hurt our pockets, but having visited both countries, I could understand the rationale and even support it, unless a better way can be found to allow genuine and responsible visitors without importing the undesirable influences of unfettered tourism. In any case, the journey was for us, worth every cent we expended. And more…
Especially when we went at a most tumultuous of times for any sort of travel. The Iraq war had started. Then the first cases of the dreaded ailment, otherwise known as SARS (Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome), emerged, that was to continue to have a devastating effect on our social lives long after we returned to Singapore. Finally, we read about an earthquake in Bhutan measuring 5.5 on the Richter scale just a couple of days before we set off. Suffice to say, it felt almost like a miracle when we took off from Bangkok on the small Druk Air flight, the national carrier of Bhutan. This was only one of two ways for foreigners to enter the country, the other being by a road route via India.
It was one quaint flight. The last three rows of seats also acted as cargo hold with overflowing luggage, no doubt due to the country’s nationals trying to make the most of their rare ‘shopping trips’ to Bangkok. As we were to learn later, foreign amenities were hard to come by in Bhutan and most were from India or Thailand. In fact, we found ourselves also part of the postman network, carrying a baby pram and an assortment of other items that were meant for delivery to various people in Bhutan, including the Queen herself! But that is another story. Long before we sat foot on Paro airport, we had already been treated to the hospitality of the country by our wonderful tour operator, Mr Sangay Tshering, and his Singaporean wife, Sara, of Yeti Tours & Treks. Such was the intimacy of arranging a trip to Bhutan where everything was done by hand on a personal basis, right up to the checking-in of luggage at Bangkok airport by Druk Air’s staff instead of a ground handling agent.
So with a huge dose of anticipation, we cruised down Paro valley with an airport elevation of 2235m. Stepping off the plane, we had our first encounter with the elaborate Bhutan architecture. The airport terminal looked like a temple! Thus began our magical tour of the land stilled in time…
Friday, March 30, 2007
Thursday, March 29, 2007
Bhutan Traveller
By Hob Osterlund - hob@hawaii.rr.com
source: Travel Blog
Our airplane is several miles from its destination in Paro, Bhutan. It’s late afternoon, and we’re flying so low we can almost count the individual blue pine trees in steep forests below. The airport’s altitude is 7000 feet, and we’re still in monsoon clouds. Soon we can see the branches on the trees, mingling tentatively with loose tufts of vapor, whispering the presence of a mystery. We spot women in small rice paddies, close enough for us to name multiple colors in the kiras, their traditional clothing.
Sharp embankments are within shouting distance of our wings, and children on mountain roads stop to wave enthusiastically as we descend. We’ve been told that a safe arrival in the Paro airport takes a skilled aviator, so it’s a good time to remember that miracles are known to happen here.
Though most people have still not heard of Bhutan, it is a world unlike any other. The Kingdom of Bhutan is nuzzled in the eastern Himalayas, north of India and south of Tibet. Not only is it in the mountains, it is virtually all mountain. The country ranges in elevation from about 600 feet to 24,778 feet, and only 8% of the land is tillable. Flying is the only way for tourists to get there. Druk Air is the exclusive airline to fly into Bhutan, with a fleet of two 72-passenger airplanes. It has the distinction of being the only airline to routinely fly over eight of the tallest peaks in the world. The word Druk means dragon. Druk Yul is what Bhutanese call their country, translated as the Land of the Thunder Dragon.
It is listed as one of the ten biodiversity hot spots in the world, with an estimated 165 mammal and 5500 plant species, 500 of which are considered medicinal. There are about 770 bird species. In contrast, North America is reported to have about 800 species of birds, in a land mass more than 400 times larger than Bhutan. Seventy-two percent of the Kingdom is covered with forests. A remarkable 26% of the entire country is protected by national parks and sanctuaries.
Most of the giant peaks have never been explored by westerners and are considered home to the deities, so climbing them is not allowed. Bhutan is so protective of its environment that killing a black-necked crane means life imprisonment. Plastic bags are illegal. The king of Bhutan, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, is respected both internationally and at home. In his 26-year reign he’s been credited with opening Bhutan to the visitors for the first time. Bringing in tourists is one thing, but delivering Bhutan to the 21st century is quite another.
Bhutan’s resources are as vulnerable as they are impressive. It has a population of about 650,000 people, most of whom are scattered in remote valleys narrowly wedged between high mountains. It measures 180 miles long and 100 miles wide, a land mass about one-fifth the size of Oregon. The majority of people live on subsistence farming with an average annual income of $510.00. Roads have been built within the last 20 years, and though they connect some regions, most of the country can only be reached by footpath. In order to be cautious with its capacity to absorb visitors, Bhutan’s annual tourist count is about 7,000. We have come to trek and to experience the culture. We’re also drawn to the high mountain passes where prayer flags are planted in auspicious locations and where invocations are best heard by the gods and goddesses of the Himalayas.
We each have our own list of requests for our challenged world, and are eager to set these prayers free. Once our plane lands, we touch the tarmac in gratitude and bow in reverence toward the mountains, which totally capture our attention. The mountain pass through which our airplane flew is already obscured. These are monsoon clouds, not the angry hit-and-run variety, but more of the what’s-the-hurry, drooling kind. They hang low on the mountains like gauze petticoats, allowing a seductive look upwards. Gradually we notice another subtler, equally magnificent quality. It’s the sweet, unassuming silence.
No traffic on the ground or in the air, no leaf blowers, and blessed be, no car stereos. In fact, the airport parking lot has exactly 12 cars. Listen to that quiet, we whisper to each other. There is literally nothing to hear except the wind and the birds. Considering ourselves aficionados of quiet, we are now officially in heaven. It’s easy to like the Bhutanese at once. For example, we are told by two immigration officials that our visa expired last week. We explain our itinerary. They smile and shrug, saying something we will hear many more times in Bhutan. What can you do? They extend our legal time with a proper stamp and without fee.
Leaving the building, we are greeted by a local man wearing a Bhutanese man’s attire called a gho, which resembles a colorful knee-length bathrobe with rolled-up sleeves. He holds up a sign with our names, which is especially charming since we are the only tourists in the entire airport. His name is Wangdi, and he is to be our guide. He introduces us to our driver Sharub, which sounds just like Shut Up. This name turns out to be apropos, since Sharub knows no English and will never once speak to us. He is a good sport, and has a perpetual smile with perfect teeth. We’re shuttled to a hotel set among forest and flower paths, and given tiny keys on brass key holders so heavy they’d make your pants fall down.
Tourist season officially began one week ago. So far we’re the only guests in the hotel. Our next several days are spent hiking, taking countless photographs, and visiting remarkable fort-monasteries called dzongs. When we visit the Paro dzong, Wangdi proudly tells us this particular structure was featured in the movie Little Buddha. We also climb to an especially sacred monastery called the Tiger’s Nest, notched precariously into a sheer cliff wall. It’s Bhutan’s most famous landmark.
Visiting a farmhouse, we sip yak butter tea with a widow who is old friends with Tshering, our gracious travel agent. The farmer woman’s son has just graduated from college in India and has returned to help her with the farm. For the benefit of their family and the world, they have hired a dozen monks and nuns who are chanting and fasting in an adjacent room. We are invited to duck through a curtain to join them, and the chanters welcome us by squeezing closer together on the floor to give us space.
We are told that all Bhutanese people have a specific place in their homes for worship. As Buddhists, they pray for all sentient beings. Little do we realize how especially timely this is. The evening prior to our trek two other Americans approach us with troubled faces. They’ve just called home.
The date is September 11th and it’s 9:15 am in New York. Since we have no further access to news, we learn very little more until the next morning when we are leaving on our trek and are joined by a dozen schoolchildren. We are able to infer the ominous developments from them when we ask them why they’re out of school. Because two big buildings in America fell down, madam. As it turns out, the king has closed the country so his people can light butter lamps for us, in mourning. We carry the news of America and the king’s compassion like backpacks into the mountains. When we reach the high altitude passes, our supplications are even more fervent than we imagined when we left home.
May the miracles that have protected Bhutan fly from these mountains to protect the entire world. May we create a world safe for all children to wave greetings to airplanes. May the illusion of separation be lifted so we can remember our compassion for each other. May those who govern do so wisely. May we keep places of mystery, peace and quiet safe for the whole world to visit.
source: Travel Blog
Our airplane is several miles from its destination in Paro, Bhutan. It’s late afternoon, and we’re flying so low we can almost count the individual blue pine trees in steep forests below. The airport’s altitude is 7000 feet, and we’re still in monsoon clouds. Soon we can see the branches on the trees, mingling tentatively with loose tufts of vapor, whispering the presence of a mystery. We spot women in small rice paddies, close enough for us to name multiple colors in the kiras, their traditional clothing.
Sharp embankments are within shouting distance of our wings, and children on mountain roads stop to wave enthusiastically as we descend. We’ve been told that a safe arrival in the Paro airport takes a skilled aviator, so it’s a good time to remember that miracles are known to happen here.
Though most people have still not heard of Bhutan, it is a world unlike any other. The Kingdom of Bhutan is nuzzled in the eastern Himalayas, north of India and south of Tibet. Not only is it in the mountains, it is virtually all mountain. The country ranges in elevation from about 600 feet to 24,778 feet, and only 8% of the land is tillable. Flying is the only way for tourists to get there. Druk Air is the exclusive airline to fly into Bhutan, with a fleet of two 72-passenger airplanes. It has the distinction of being the only airline to routinely fly over eight of the tallest peaks in the world. The word Druk means dragon. Druk Yul is what Bhutanese call their country, translated as the Land of the Thunder Dragon.
It is listed as one of the ten biodiversity hot spots in the world, with an estimated 165 mammal and 5500 plant species, 500 of which are considered medicinal. There are about 770 bird species. In contrast, North America is reported to have about 800 species of birds, in a land mass more than 400 times larger than Bhutan. Seventy-two percent of the Kingdom is covered with forests. A remarkable 26% of the entire country is protected by national parks and sanctuaries.
Most of the giant peaks have never been explored by westerners and are considered home to the deities, so climbing them is not allowed. Bhutan is so protective of its environment that killing a black-necked crane means life imprisonment. Plastic bags are illegal. The king of Bhutan, His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuck, is respected both internationally and at home. In his 26-year reign he’s been credited with opening Bhutan to the visitors for the first time. Bringing in tourists is one thing, but delivering Bhutan to the 21st century is quite another.
Bhutan’s resources are as vulnerable as they are impressive. It has a population of about 650,000 people, most of whom are scattered in remote valleys narrowly wedged between high mountains. It measures 180 miles long and 100 miles wide, a land mass about one-fifth the size of Oregon. The majority of people live on subsistence farming with an average annual income of $510.00. Roads have been built within the last 20 years, and though they connect some regions, most of the country can only be reached by footpath. In order to be cautious with its capacity to absorb visitors, Bhutan’s annual tourist count is about 7,000. We have come to trek and to experience the culture. We’re also drawn to the high mountain passes where prayer flags are planted in auspicious locations and where invocations are best heard by the gods and goddesses of the Himalayas.
We each have our own list of requests for our challenged world, and are eager to set these prayers free. Once our plane lands, we touch the tarmac in gratitude and bow in reverence toward the mountains, which totally capture our attention. The mountain pass through which our airplane flew is already obscured. These are monsoon clouds, not the angry hit-and-run variety, but more of the what’s-the-hurry, drooling kind. They hang low on the mountains like gauze petticoats, allowing a seductive look upwards. Gradually we notice another subtler, equally magnificent quality. It’s the sweet, unassuming silence.
No traffic on the ground or in the air, no leaf blowers, and blessed be, no car stereos. In fact, the airport parking lot has exactly 12 cars. Listen to that quiet, we whisper to each other. There is literally nothing to hear except the wind and the birds. Considering ourselves aficionados of quiet, we are now officially in heaven. It’s easy to like the Bhutanese at once. For example, we are told by two immigration officials that our visa expired last week. We explain our itinerary. They smile and shrug, saying something we will hear many more times in Bhutan. What can you do? They extend our legal time with a proper stamp and without fee.
Leaving the building, we are greeted by a local man wearing a Bhutanese man’s attire called a gho, which resembles a colorful knee-length bathrobe with rolled-up sleeves. He holds up a sign with our names, which is especially charming since we are the only tourists in the entire airport. His name is Wangdi, and he is to be our guide. He introduces us to our driver Sharub, which sounds just like Shut Up. This name turns out to be apropos, since Sharub knows no English and will never once speak to us. He is a good sport, and has a perpetual smile with perfect teeth. We’re shuttled to a hotel set among forest and flower paths, and given tiny keys on brass key holders so heavy they’d make your pants fall down.
Tourist season officially began one week ago. So far we’re the only guests in the hotel. Our next several days are spent hiking, taking countless photographs, and visiting remarkable fort-monasteries called dzongs. When we visit the Paro dzong, Wangdi proudly tells us this particular structure was featured in the movie Little Buddha. We also climb to an especially sacred monastery called the Tiger’s Nest, notched precariously into a sheer cliff wall. It’s Bhutan’s most famous landmark.
Visiting a farmhouse, we sip yak butter tea with a widow who is old friends with Tshering, our gracious travel agent. The farmer woman’s son has just graduated from college in India and has returned to help her with the farm. For the benefit of their family and the world, they have hired a dozen monks and nuns who are chanting and fasting in an adjacent room. We are invited to duck through a curtain to join them, and the chanters welcome us by squeezing closer together on the floor to give us space.
We are told that all Bhutanese people have a specific place in their homes for worship. As Buddhists, they pray for all sentient beings. Little do we realize how especially timely this is. The evening prior to our trek two other Americans approach us with troubled faces. They’ve just called home.
The date is September 11th and it’s 9:15 am in New York. Since we have no further access to news, we learn very little more until the next morning when we are leaving on our trek and are joined by a dozen schoolchildren. We are able to infer the ominous developments from them when we ask them why they’re out of school. Because two big buildings in America fell down, madam. As it turns out, the king has closed the country so his people can light butter lamps for us, in mourning. We carry the news of America and the king’s compassion like backpacks into the mountains. When we reach the high altitude passes, our supplications are even more fervent than we imagined when we left home.
May the miracles that have protected Bhutan fly from these mountains to protect the entire world. May we create a world safe for all children to wave greetings to airplanes. May the illusion of separation be lifted so we can remember our compassion for each other. May those who govern do so wisely. May we keep places of mystery, peace and quiet safe for the whole world to visit.
Monday, March 26, 2007
Bhutan Photos
sunrisesource: etravel
rainbow 
thimphu
tshophu lake
farming for life
some mountain (*lol*)
source: thimphumission
courtesy: flicker.com
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Expect the Unexpected...
By Brett
Dates Traveled: October 2001
Source: Travel Website of Brett Voegele
Phuentsholing
On the way through India to the Bhutan border I saw a sign along the road which said, "Expect the unexpected". That could be India's national motto! The drive towards Bhutan was very nice, as it passed through tea plantations and green hillsides. I knew I was going to like Bhutan when I asked my guide a question. He thought for a minute before confessing to not knowing the answer and said he'd look it up and get back to me. I prefer that honesty to what occurs in some countries - such as India. They are too anxious to please, so will always provide an answer - even if they have no real idea what they're talking about. It means that you end up polling several people and going with the majority, which can be frustrating and time consuming.
The first stop in Bhutan was the border town of Phuentsholing, which is like border towns everywhere - non-descript, dirty, noisy, and a strange blend between the two countries. The following day we took the 6 1/2 hour (though only 170 km) drive to Paro. The highway is only about 1 3/4 vehicles wide, which means that you have to hang a few wheels off the road every time you pass or meet an oncoming car. There are also several cars, dogs, cows, and people on the road, and oncoming cars often stop to talk for a bit - blocking the entire road. The pavement is destroyed in places due to water runoff or rockslides, and there are several people along the road - normally women with their small children, breaking rocks into gravel with hammers to fill in the numerous potholes. Bhutan has very steep, green forested hills, with many waterfalls and rivers. Most major towns are situated in a river valley. The road continuously climbs out of one valley, winding along the various side valleys, before topping out on a prayer-flag covered pass and descending into the next valley. Going anywhere by road takes a long time, and you're constantly thrown from one side of the vehicle to the other, as there are no straight stretches.
Paro
Paro isn't the capital, but does boast the country's international airport. It's a picturesque town, with the very nice national museum and a dzong - or fortress. These are found throughout the Kingdom of Bhutan, and often serve as both administrative offices and monastery, and is the location of the various dance and mask festivals throughout the year. They basically look like the monasteries you may have seen in pictures of Tibet, such as the Potala in Lhasa. The local homes are very unique, both architecturally with their cross-beams and window designs, but also in the paintings around the windows and doors, on the trim, and larger tigers, snow leopards, or other motifs on the side of some buildings. Very nice. Everywhere you turn in Bhutan you are confronted with prayer flags - some small 1 foot square flags strung together, and other single - 1' X 15-20' flags on a pole by themselves. Very peaceful to see them and to hear them flapping in the breeze. Buddhists believe that the prayers written on the flags will be dispersed on the wind.
That first morning in Paro we hiked up to about 9600' to a point where we could look directly across to Taktsang - the Tiger's Nest monastery. If people have seen anything from Bhutan, this was probably it. It's a monastery perched precariously on a vertical cliff. It's a dramatic setting - quite amazing, though I would come to expect that in Bhutan, as most monasteries are perched someplace spectacular - hilltops or cliff faces. Some of the monastery burned down in '98, but they are in the process of rebuilding, with most of the outside completed. It was truly amazing - one of the things I had really wanted to see in Bhutan, and I wasn't disappointed in the least.I next met Yeshup, the owner of the company I was traveling with, while in Paro and we hit it off immediately. He had already cut me a good deal for my week's stay in Bhutan.
Bhutan is attempting to limit the number of tourists that visit - thereby maintaining some of their culture and not becoming as westernized as countries such as Nepal. To that end, everyone is required to spend US$200/day, for the duration of their stay. That includes a guide, accommodations, food, driver, etc. If you are traveling on your own, there is a US$40/day extra charge, or a total of US$240/day.....not exactly budget travel, especially compared to the US$7/day I was spending in India. Since Yeshup's agent from the States had canceled his familiarization tour of Bhutan after the events of September 11th, Yeshup made me his agent, which meant I could do the trip for $180/day. Once in the country he told me he could extend my stay by a week and I would pay a minimal charge, which was too good to pass up. Yeshup has traveled to Australia, the States, Nepal, India, Singapore, Thailand, etc., and so knows what a single traveler would want, so we fit perfectly. He seemed to know everybody throughout Bhutan, so I was shown the true Bhutan - friend's homes, farmhouses, restaurants of friends, etc., and was able to talk to many Bhutanese from all walks of life. A great opportunity. The Bhutanese are a fantastic people - always smiling, laughing, and teasing each other. It was a lot of fun.
We also did things more budget, rather than the way he would run a trip with most of his clients, which suited me to a tee. On a large group tour you're insulated from the true culture, as the food that is prepared has to be toned down, and you won't get the rot-gut alcohol, strange food, etc., but I was able to partake in everything. Every meal we had ema datse - the national dish. It is simply chilis in a light cheese sauce, and it will set you on fire! Most countries use chilis sparingly for flavor, but in Bhutan that is the main meal - the vegetable, which accounts for all the chilis you see drying on the rooftops of the homes. We also drank ara, which is a kerosene-tasting alcohol which we drank several nights - usually finishing a 1 1/2 liter bottle between the two of us. We also had our share of bang changg (pronounce bung chung), a warm wheat beer, and sing changg, the same but cold. Dried yak cheese comes in squares about 1 inch square, and you end up chewing on each piece for about an hour, as it's rock hard. Doma, or betel nut, is found in both India and Bhutan, and accounts for most people having red teeth. It's a nut, with a bit of lime paste, wrapped in a leaf. Some people spit out the resulting red liquid, which provides the distinctive red splotches on the sidewalks. Swallowing the fluid provides a slight buzz for a few minutes. I'd only have about one a day, but they would have them one after another. People that Yeshup introduced me to would look shocked when he told them I ate ema datse, yak cheese, ara, bang changg, doma, etc., but I figure if you're going to go to a country you should experience it the way the locals live. Much more interesting. Bhutanese believe that evil spirits can't bend their heads to pass through a doorway (no comments from those of you who know how often I smack my head on stuff when I travel!) and so all doors are short. The doors also have a small step in them, so the evil spirits can't flow across the ground, meaning that one has to step up and bend down when passing through all doors. Let's just say that at 6'2", I was a whole lot of evil walking around, bumping my head.
Thimphu
After Paro we drove the 1 1/2 hours to the capital of Thimphu - another town in a river valley. I enjoyed Thimphu, as we visited a place where they created the various carvings, religious paintings, sculptures, etc., and then went someplace to watch them make paper. We visited the Memorial Chorten and witnessed the monks chanting and performing a ceremony, and visited several other monasteries. We saw the national animal - the takin, which looks like a cow with a goats head. As in all of Bhutan, both the men and women wear a traditional outfit. For the men, the kho is a long robe that is hiked up to just below the knees and tied with a sash, and is worn with knee-high socks. The pattern of the material is usually some sort of check. For the women, the kira is a large sheet of bright material wrapped around the body to form a dress, and is usually worn with a small jacket.
Bumthang District
From Thimphu we headed 9 1/2 hours east to the district of Bumthang, which sounds like something somebody would yell towards you at a disco, "Hey, you, shake that bum thang", until you realize that it's pronounced boom tong. Jakar is the major village in this area where four valleys meet, and the area contains much of the early culture of the Kingdom. We walked around the valley to several monasteries. We happened to be there on an auspicious day, so there were many offerings and ceremonies to witness.
In Bumthang we also did a short two-day hike. The first night we spent with a family in a remote village. Homes are actually quite large, with a clay wood-fired oven in the kitchen used for cooking, which tends to smoke the house. There is no electricity, so it was fun to sit in the kitchen, talk, drink, and eat by candlelight. There is also a room with an alter for the offerings and prayers, as well as some bedrooms. The living quarters are usually found on the second floor at the top of a very steep ladder. In the past the ground floor would have been used for animals, but this is less common today. That night we sat around a fire outside while some of the local people sang songs and danced for us. They were shy at first, but eventually got into it and were still going 3 1/2 hours later. It was a magical evening.
Road Back to Thimphu
After completing the trek and spending another night in Jakar we were on the road back towards Thimphu. We stopped for lunch at Chendebji Chorten, a large Nepalese-style stupa by a small stream, surrounded by prayer flags. Very peaceful. We made a side trip up the Phobjikha Valley to the Gangte Goemba - an impressive monastery, before finally reaching Wangdi and our stopping point for the night. Throughout the Bumthang district we saw people harvesting buckwheat - cutting it by hand, and separating the grain by repeatedly throwing everything into the air and whacking it with a stick until all the grains had fallen to a tarp on the ground. The grain was then fed into a water-driven mill to be ground into flour.The next day we progressed to Punakha and it's dzong - fortress/monastery. This is impressive, and is the site of one of the many Bhutanese festivals, though I wasn't lucky enough to witness one....next time.
Thimphu
Back in Thimphu I did a bit of wandering around, and attended the weekend market. It's geared more to the locals with the selling of fruits and vegetables, but there is also a fairly extensive handicraft section for tourists.I also witnessed the national sport - archery. Teams shoot arrows from about 150 yards at a 1' x 2' target, and perform specific dances when the target is hit. They also play the same game with darts which are thrown by hand, from about 30 yards, at a 3" x 10" target. Entertaining to witness.
We decided to do another short two-day hike above Thimphu, so hiked a few hours above town to a monastery - a mini Tiger's Next perched on a steep cliff. We had to wait at a lower monastery for the caretaker to lead us to the upper monastery. I was expecting a wizened man, but was instead greeted with monks-in-study of 13 and 14 years. We sat around the kitchen that night talking, joking, and playing games with the two kids, who seem to walk a fine line between peaceful, grown-up monks and two little kids. It was an amazing place to spend the night, as we could look down on the lights of Thimphu.
The following day we awoke to a view over a carpet of clouds - obscuring Thimphu, but offering some views of the Himalaya. We then hiked up over the top of the ridge and to a small lake, where we cast fishing line wound around an aluminum can into the lake, reeling in 4 small trout, which were prepared for my lunch the following day at a restaurant back in Thimphu. A great way to spend a few days.
Bhutan Is...
After Thimphu I traveled back to Paro for my flight out of Bhutan and into Kathmandu, Nepal. Bhutan is a wonderful country - one of the best I've been fortunate enough to see. The people are amazing, there is some wonderful culture, great festivals, and some fantastic outdoor pursuits. The 28 day snowman trek is considered one of the most difficult in the world. I will certainly return, as I'd like to get farther East, I'd like to see one of the festivals, and want to do a longer trek. If anybody is interested in traveling to Bhutan - and I highly recommend it, let me know and I'll give you Yeshup's information. He is a fantastic guide - many of the other people that were in the country with different guides were actually taking his card to give to their friends back home. In a country where you have to have a guide he can make or break your trip. For me, Bhutan is: tranquillity; no touts; friendly, laughing, teasing people; doma and red teeth; monasteries; traditional kho and kira outfits; dogs; ema datse; green, steep, forested hillsides; winding, poor roads; unique and beautiful architecture on homes; prayer flags flapping in the wind; road crew women breaking rocks with hammers; temples built on precarious cliffs or high mountains; archery; singing and dancing.
I will return.
Dates Traveled: October 2001
Source: Travel Website of Brett Voegele
Phuentsholing
On the way through India to the Bhutan border I saw a sign along the road which said, "Expect the unexpected". That could be India's national motto! The drive towards Bhutan was very nice, as it passed through tea plantations and green hillsides. I knew I was going to like Bhutan when I asked my guide a question. He thought for a minute before confessing to not knowing the answer and said he'd look it up and get back to me. I prefer that honesty to what occurs in some countries - such as India. They are too anxious to please, so will always provide an answer - even if they have no real idea what they're talking about. It means that you end up polling several people and going with the majority, which can be frustrating and time consuming.
The first stop in Bhutan was the border town of Phuentsholing, which is like border towns everywhere - non-descript, dirty, noisy, and a strange blend between the two countries. The following day we took the 6 1/2 hour (though only 170 km) drive to Paro. The highway is only about 1 3/4 vehicles wide, which means that you have to hang a few wheels off the road every time you pass or meet an oncoming car. There are also several cars, dogs, cows, and people on the road, and oncoming cars often stop to talk for a bit - blocking the entire road. The pavement is destroyed in places due to water runoff or rockslides, and there are several people along the road - normally women with their small children, breaking rocks into gravel with hammers to fill in the numerous potholes. Bhutan has very steep, green forested hills, with many waterfalls and rivers. Most major towns are situated in a river valley. The road continuously climbs out of one valley, winding along the various side valleys, before topping out on a prayer-flag covered pass and descending into the next valley. Going anywhere by road takes a long time, and you're constantly thrown from one side of the vehicle to the other, as there are no straight stretches.
Paro
Paro isn't the capital, but does boast the country's international airport. It's a picturesque town, with the very nice national museum and a dzong - or fortress. These are found throughout the Kingdom of Bhutan, and often serve as both administrative offices and monastery, and is the location of the various dance and mask festivals throughout the year. They basically look like the monasteries you may have seen in pictures of Tibet, such as the Potala in Lhasa. The local homes are very unique, both architecturally with their cross-beams and window designs, but also in the paintings around the windows and doors, on the trim, and larger tigers, snow leopards, or other motifs on the side of some buildings. Very nice. Everywhere you turn in Bhutan you are confronted with prayer flags - some small 1 foot square flags strung together, and other single - 1' X 15-20' flags on a pole by themselves. Very peaceful to see them and to hear them flapping in the breeze. Buddhists believe that the prayers written on the flags will be dispersed on the wind.
That first morning in Paro we hiked up to about 9600' to a point where we could look directly across to Taktsang - the Tiger's Nest monastery. If people have seen anything from Bhutan, this was probably it. It's a monastery perched precariously on a vertical cliff. It's a dramatic setting - quite amazing, though I would come to expect that in Bhutan, as most monasteries are perched someplace spectacular - hilltops or cliff faces. Some of the monastery burned down in '98, but they are in the process of rebuilding, with most of the outside completed. It was truly amazing - one of the things I had really wanted to see in Bhutan, and I wasn't disappointed in the least.I next met Yeshup, the owner of the company I was traveling with, while in Paro and we hit it off immediately. He had already cut me a good deal for my week's stay in Bhutan.
Bhutan is attempting to limit the number of tourists that visit - thereby maintaining some of their culture and not becoming as westernized as countries such as Nepal. To that end, everyone is required to spend US$200/day, for the duration of their stay. That includes a guide, accommodations, food, driver, etc. If you are traveling on your own, there is a US$40/day extra charge, or a total of US$240/day.....not exactly budget travel, especially compared to the US$7/day I was spending in India. Since Yeshup's agent from the States had canceled his familiarization tour of Bhutan after the events of September 11th, Yeshup made me his agent, which meant I could do the trip for $180/day. Once in the country he told me he could extend my stay by a week and I would pay a minimal charge, which was too good to pass up. Yeshup has traveled to Australia, the States, Nepal, India, Singapore, Thailand, etc., and so knows what a single traveler would want, so we fit perfectly. He seemed to know everybody throughout Bhutan, so I was shown the true Bhutan - friend's homes, farmhouses, restaurants of friends, etc., and was able to talk to many Bhutanese from all walks of life. A great opportunity. The Bhutanese are a fantastic people - always smiling, laughing, and teasing each other. It was a lot of fun.
We also did things more budget, rather than the way he would run a trip with most of his clients, which suited me to a tee. On a large group tour you're insulated from the true culture, as the food that is prepared has to be toned down, and you won't get the rot-gut alcohol, strange food, etc., but I was able to partake in everything. Every meal we had ema datse - the national dish. It is simply chilis in a light cheese sauce, and it will set you on fire! Most countries use chilis sparingly for flavor, but in Bhutan that is the main meal - the vegetable, which accounts for all the chilis you see drying on the rooftops of the homes. We also drank ara, which is a kerosene-tasting alcohol which we drank several nights - usually finishing a 1 1/2 liter bottle between the two of us. We also had our share of bang changg (pronounce bung chung), a warm wheat beer, and sing changg, the same but cold. Dried yak cheese comes in squares about 1 inch square, and you end up chewing on each piece for about an hour, as it's rock hard. Doma, or betel nut, is found in both India and Bhutan, and accounts for most people having red teeth. It's a nut, with a bit of lime paste, wrapped in a leaf. Some people spit out the resulting red liquid, which provides the distinctive red splotches on the sidewalks. Swallowing the fluid provides a slight buzz for a few minutes. I'd only have about one a day, but they would have them one after another. People that Yeshup introduced me to would look shocked when he told them I ate ema datse, yak cheese, ara, bang changg, doma, etc., but I figure if you're going to go to a country you should experience it the way the locals live. Much more interesting. Bhutanese believe that evil spirits can't bend their heads to pass through a doorway (no comments from those of you who know how often I smack my head on stuff when I travel!) and so all doors are short. The doors also have a small step in them, so the evil spirits can't flow across the ground, meaning that one has to step up and bend down when passing through all doors. Let's just say that at 6'2", I was a whole lot of evil walking around, bumping my head.
Thimphu
After Paro we drove the 1 1/2 hours to the capital of Thimphu - another town in a river valley. I enjoyed Thimphu, as we visited a place where they created the various carvings, religious paintings, sculptures, etc., and then went someplace to watch them make paper. We visited the Memorial Chorten and witnessed the monks chanting and performing a ceremony, and visited several other monasteries. We saw the national animal - the takin, which looks like a cow with a goats head. As in all of Bhutan, both the men and women wear a traditional outfit. For the men, the kho is a long robe that is hiked up to just below the knees and tied with a sash, and is worn with knee-high socks. The pattern of the material is usually some sort of check. For the women, the kira is a large sheet of bright material wrapped around the body to form a dress, and is usually worn with a small jacket.
Bumthang District
From Thimphu we headed 9 1/2 hours east to the district of Bumthang, which sounds like something somebody would yell towards you at a disco, "Hey, you, shake that bum thang", until you realize that it's pronounced boom tong. Jakar is the major village in this area where four valleys meet, and the area contains much of the early culture of the Kingdom. We walked around the valley to several monasteries. We happened to be there on an auspicious day, so there were many offerings and ceremonies to witness.
In Bumthang we also did a short two-day hike. The first night we spent with a family in a remote village. Homes are actually quite large, with a clay wood-fired oven in the kitchen used for cooking, which tends to smoke the house. There is no electricity, so it was fun to sit in the kitchen, talk, drink, and eat by candlelight. There is also a room with an alter for the offerings and prayers, as well as some bedrooms. The living quarters are usually found on the second floor at the top of a very steep ladder. In the past the ground floor would have been used for animals, but this is less common today. That night we sat around a fire outside while some of the local people sang songs and danced for us. They were shy at first, but eventually got into it and were still going 3 1/2 hours later. It was a magical evening.
Road Back to Thimphu
After completing the trek and spending another night in Jakar we were on the road back towards Thimphu. We stopped for lunch at Chendebji Chorten, a large Nepalese-style stupa by a small stream, surrounded by prayer flags. Very peaceful. We made a side trip up the Phobjikha Valley to the Gangte Goemba - an impressive monastery, before finally reaching Wangdi and our stopping point for the night. Throughout the Bumthang district we saw people harvesting buckwheat - cutting it by hand, and separating the grain by repeatedly throwing everything into the air and whacking it with a stick until all the grains had fallen to a tarp on the ground. The grain was then fed into a water-driven mill to be ground into flour.The next day we progressed to Punakha and it's dzong - fortress/monastery. This is impressive, and is the site of one of the many Bhutanese festivals, though I wasn't lucky enough to witness one....next time.
Thimphu
Back in Thimphu I did a bit of wandering around, and attended the weekend market. It's geared more to the locals with the selling of fruits and vegetables, but there is also a fairly extensive handicraft section for tourists.I also witnessed the national sport - archery. Teams shoot arrows from about 150 yards at a 1' x 2' target, and perform specific dances when the target is hit. They also play the same game with darts which are thrown by hand, from about 30 yards, at a 3" x 10" target. Entertaining to witness.
We decided to do another short two-day hike above Thimphu, so hiked a few hours above town to a monastery - a mini Tiger's Next perched on a steep cliff. We had to wait at a lower monastery for the caretaker to lead us to the upper monastery. I was expecting a wizened man, but was instead greeted with monks-in-study of 13 and 14 years. We sat around the kitchen that night talking, joking, and playing games with the two kids, who seem to walk a fine line between peaceful, grown-up monks and two little kids. It was an amazing place to spend the night, as we could look down on the lights of Thimphu.
The following day we awoke to a view over a carpet of clouds - obscuring Thimphu, but offering some views of the Himalaya. We then hiked up over the top of the ridge and to a small lake, where we cast fishing line wound around an aluminum can into the lake, reeling in 4 small trout, which were prepared for my lunch the following day at a restaurant back in Thimphu. A great way to spend a few days.
Bhutan Is...
After Thimphu I traveled back to Paro for my flight out of Bhutan and into Kathmandu, Nepal. Bhutan is a wonderful country - one of the best I've been fortunate enough to see. The people are amazing, there is some wonderful culture, great festivals, and some fantastic outdoor pursuits. The 28 day snowman trek is considered one of the most difficult in the world. I will certainly return, as I'd like to get farther East, I'd like to see one of the festivals, and want to do a longer trek. If anybody is interested in traveling to Bhutan - and I highly recommend it, let me know and I'll give you Yeshup's information. He is a fantastic guide - many of the other people that were in the country with different guides were actually taking his card to give to their friends back home. In a country where you have to have a guide he can make or break your trip. For me, Bhutan is: tranquillity; no touts; friendly, laughing, teasing people; doma and red teeth; monasteries; traditional kho and kira outfits; dogs; ema datse; green, steep, forested hillsides; winding, poor roads; unique and beautiful architecture on homes; prayer flags flapping in the wind; road crew women breaking rocks with hammers; temples built on precarious cliffs or high mountains; archery; singing and dancing.
I will return.
Friday, March 23, 2007
Travelling in Bhutan
By Hardeep Johar
Bhutan is a beautiful and unspoiled country. My wife and I went there for our honeymoon (Indian nationals are permitted to travel on their own) a few years ago and really enjoyed our trip. We did not trek except for a couple of one day hikes, but, I think, that the government does organize longer treks (again in groups). Whether you agree or not with the policy of controlling the inflow of foreign nationals, I must say that the policy has been remarkably successful in preserving the countries beauty. This is in sharp contrast to what is happenning in Nepal.
A visit to Bhutan starts with the flight to Paro in a 16 seater fokker which drones at a low altitude first over the Indian plains, and then through the himalayas. A rare treat. You land at Paro, a small airstrip maintained by the Indian Air Force and walk to the customs and immigration building (a small shed) where an official makes sure that you are not a subversive character. Almost anyone you will meet in an official capacity (including hotel employees) speak english.
Paro is a small town (one street approx half a mile long) nestled in a valley, by the side of a river, has a beautiful hotel (exactly one), a massive monastery where you can roam at will. Neither the hotel nor the airport are in the town, and only the hotel is walking distance. Cabs (Jeeps) are easily available, though not inexpensive.
Approximately 50 miles from Paro is the monastery of Taktsang perched precariously on the edge of a cliff, a long, steep hike from the road (2 hours for a monk wearing slippers, 3-4 hours up for a seasoned trekker with good boots, allow 1-2 hours for the return). Except for a couple of monks, you won't meet anyone on this walk. Halfway to the top there is a "restaurant" which caters mainly to tourist groups. When we were there, no group was expected for a while, and the caretaker could only give us some tea. If you go alone (that is not in a tourist group) make sure that you check the bus timings for the return trip from the point where the hike starts to Paro. The last bus is fairly early in the afternoon. We missed the bus, but were lucky enough to be given a lift back by a Bhutanese Army truck.
Taktsang is important for the Bhutanese people because the Buddhist monk, Guru Rinpoche, is thought to have landed there on the back of a flying tiger centuries ago to bring Buddhism to Bhutan (from Tibet). The Guru Rinpoche is close to a God in Bhutan and you will see many signs of him there. New Yorkers, there is an excellent introduction to the Guru at the Museum of Natural History.
Thimphu is one and a half hours by bus from Paro. Thimphu has a few hotels, two good ones, and a couple of terrible ones. Bhutan is expensive by Indian standards (which is why no Indians go there). The good hotels cater to UN officials and Indian government officials (plenty of both around), and the terrible ones cater to salespeople selling "Hamam" soap (an inexpensive Indian soap). There are a couple of short treks around Thimpu, and plenty of interesting monasteries to visit.
Phajoding monastery is a short hike (4 hours round trip) from Thimpu on a poorly marked trail. We got hopelessly lost and never made it there. The Kings palace (cab ride), the religious secretariat, the tomb to the old king, many monasteries (what did you expect!) are the sights in Thimphu.
The himalaya in Bhutan is very different from what it is in Nepal and India. Very green, part rolling, part craggy hills, and almost no cultivation or deforestation. Parts of it look like the Swiss Alps (rolling meadows with icy peaks jutting out of nowhere). It is the only place I've been to that is almost unspoiled by man, and I've travelled and trekked fairly extensively in Nepal and India, and hiked a bit in the US and Europe. This is partly because the government controls tourism, and partly because the population of Bhutan is so low (cannot be more than 50000 -100000 in an area as big as New York State).
Bhutan is a beautiful and unspoiled country. My wife and I went there for our honeymoon (Indian nationals are permitted to travel on their own) a few years ago and really enjoyed our trip. We did not trek except for a couple of one day hikes, but, I think, that the government does organize longer treks (again in groups). Whether you agree or not with the policy of controlling the inflow of foreign nationals, I must say that the policy has been remarkably successful in preserving the countries beauty. This is in sharp contrast to what is happenning in Nepal.
A visit to Bhutan starts with the flight to Paro in a 16 seater fokker which drones at a low altitude first over the Indian plains, and then through the himalayas. A rare treat. You land at Paro, a small airstrip maintained by the Indian Air Force and walk to the customs and immigration building (a small shed) where an official makes sure that you are not a subversive character. Almost anyone you will meet in an official capacity (including hotel employees) speak english.
Paro is a small town (one street approx half a mile long) nestled in a valley, by the side of a river, has a beautiful hotel (exactly one), a massive monastery where you can roam at will. Neither the hotel nor the airport are in the town, and only the hotel is walking distance. Cabs (Jeeps) are easily available, though not inexpensive.
Approximately 50 miles from Paro is the monastery of Taktsang perched precariously on the edge of a cliff, a long, steep hike from the road (2 hours for a monk wearing slippers, 3-4 hours up for a seasoned trekker with good boots, allow 1-2 hours for the return). Except for a couple of monks, you won't meet anyone on this walk. Halfway to the top there is a "restaurant" which caters mainly to tourist groups. When we were there, no group was expected for a while, and the caretaker could only give us some tea. If you go alone (that is not in a tourist group) make sure that you check the bus timings for the return trip from the point where the hike starts to Paro. The last bus is fairly early in the afternoon. We missed the bus, but were lucky enough to be given a lift back by a Bhutanese Army truck.
Taktsang is important for the Bhutanese people because the Buddhist monk, Guru Rinpoche, is thought to have landed there on the back of a flying tiger centuries ago to bring Buddhism to Bhutan (from Tibet). The Guru Rinpoche is close to a God in Bhutan and you will see many signs of him there. New Yorkers, there is an excellent introduction to the Guru at the Museum of Natural History.
Thimphu is one and a half hours by bus from Paro. Thimphu has a few hotels, two good ones, and a couple of terrible ones. Bhutan is expensive by Indian standards (which is why no Indians go there). The good hotels cater to UN officials and Indian government officials (plenty of both around), and the terrible ones cater to salespeople selling "Hamam" soap (an inexpensive Indian soap). There are a couple of short treks around Thimpu, and plenty of interesting monasteries to visit.
Phajoding monastery is a short hike (4 hours round trip) from Thimpu on a poorly marked trail. We got hopelessly lost and never made it there. The Kings palace (cab ride), the religious secretariat, the tomb to the old king, many monasteries (what did you expect!) are the sights in Thimphu.
The himalaya in Bhutan is very different from what it is in Nepal and India. Very green, part rolling, part craggy hills, and almost no cultivation or deforestation. Parts of it look like the Swiss Alps (rolling meadows with icy peaks jutting out of nowhere). It is the only place I've been to that is almost unspoiled by man, and I've travelled and trekked fairly extensively in Nepal and India, and hiked a bit in the US and Europe. This is partly because the government controls tourism, and partly because the population of Bhutan is so low (cannot be more than 50000 -100000 in an area as big as New York State).
Tuesday, March 20, 2007
Bhutan
~ By Karen
Bhutan - November 25, 1999
Source: Chakmakian Consulting
~ Karen's photo Link
Tashi Delek,
I was fortunate to start my trip to Bhutan with a flight from Kathmandu. What a spectacular way to begin this incredible adventure! For virtually the entire flight, my eyes were glued to the dramatic sharp snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas. I also got my first glimpse of the amazing Mr. Everest.
I was impressed from the moment I stepped off the plane. The outside of the airport was painted very decoratively, and had a distinctive architectural design. I quickly learned that this is just traditional Bhutanese architecture. The countryside throughout Bhutan is scattered with these beautiful, intricately painted buildings, including the post office and bus terminal!
The traditional clothing was also immediately noticeable. Bhutanese are required to wear the national dress, which is made from local textiles in a variety of colorful patterns. The men wear a Gho, a tightly belted robe to just below the knee. It is often a plaid or striped design similar to a Scottish tartan. Women wear a Kira, a long, floor-length dress with a silk blouse underneath and jacket over the top. This is a large rectangular piece of fabric that wraps around the body, with hooks near the shoulders and a tight belt around the waist to hold it in place. It is eye-catching to see so many people wearing these distinctive, brightly colored costumes.
Bhutan is the most unique country I've visited. It is small and rural, about the size of Switzerland, with a population of a little over 600,000. It is bordered on the northwest by Tibet; the rest of the country is surrounded by India. I've met a lot of people who have not yet heard of Bhutan. It has been a well-kept secret. The Bhutanese say they live on their own "Roof of the World" and have kept to themselves for hundreds of years.
Bhutan first started allowing visitors in the 1970's, but has maintained a controlled philosophy with regards to tourism. Through a system of a high visitor price per day, the government has been able to limit the number of tourists and their length of stay. This is fortunate, as the country has been able to slowly build infrastructure for tourism in a way that is not spoiling the country's intrinsic beauty and culture.
Western Bhutan and the King's BirthdayWe arrived in the capital of Thimpu just in time for the week-long celebration of the King's birthday. There was constant activity going on in the town, the streets were closed to car traffic and the second-ever firework show was held. It was a very exciting week in Thimpu. The first firework show was held only five months earlier for the celebration of the King's 25th year. At the same time both television and the Internet were introduced to the country!
Shortly after arriving in Thimpu, I experienced the Bhutanese medical system. Like many people, I've always had some level of anxiety about needing to receive medical care outside of my own country. Fortunately, I only had an ear infection and it turned out to be a fairly pleasant experience. The doctors were very kind and they brought a specialist in to see me even though he was supposed to be on vacation. The most interesting part, coming from a country where medical costs are considered very high, is that health care in Bhutan is free for everyone, including visitors!
Traveling EastAlthough my time spent in the capital of Thimpu was enjoyable, traveling through the country to Eastern Bhutan, and attending a religious festival, was by far the most interesting. The scenery throughout the country is spectacular. It is very mountainous with thick green forests and the hillsides are scattered with beautiful, traditional Bhutanese buildings. Each district has a Dzong, a large white fortress-monastery that is absolutely stunning and dominates the hill on which it is built.
The Bhutanese are known for their hospitality and my travel companions and I experienced it everywhere we went. We were constantly invited into homes for tea. Many Bhutanese joke about their homes having "revolving doors" as people are constantly in and out of each other's homes.
Eastern Bhutan and the Mongar TsechuThe Buddhist faith plays a fundamental role in the lives of the Bhutanese people and there are many religious festivals. The best-known festivals are the Tsechus, which are held at different times of the year in different locations. Tsechus are celebrated for three to five days with both monks and laymen taking part in ritual mask dances. These mask dances date back many centuries.
We had the good fortune of attending a Tsechu in Mongar, a town in Eastern Bhutan. It was the highlight of the trip. Our trip organizer arranged for us to meet the governor of Mongar and have tea in his home the day before the festival began. Our good luck kept getting better as he invited us to a private ceremony in the Mongar monastery at 3:00am that next morning! Through the cool darkness, we followed a procession of government and religious officials from his home to the monastery for a surreal and somewhat mysterious two hour ceremony. When it ended, we followed the procession back to his home, led by about 20 young girls singing with the most beautiful voices that echoed off of the hills. My memories of this night are still very calming and dreamlike.
The mask dances performed at the festival during the next three days were spectacular! The costumes are so intricate and colorful and the dances are very medieval. These dances have been performed for many centuries to educate the people about Buddhist beliefs regarding the life and death cycle. It is also believed that onlookers receive merit by attending the festivals. The last morning of the festival, a gorgeous religious picture painted on fabric, called a thangka, was unrolled. It was so huge; it covered the entire side of the monastery.
Since Mongar is a very small town with minimal hotel facilities, the governor arranged for us to camp on the archery field during our three nights there. This also turned out to be an interesting experience because many of the villagers had to walk right through our campsite to get to the festival and to the town. We had many curious children coming by to look at us and peer into our tents. They were the most entertained when our guides helped dress us outside our tents each morning. Putting on a Bhutanese Kira and Gho is not an easy task!
Traveling WestDuring the next several days, our drive west back to the capital brought a number of additional interesting experiences. The most memorable was picking up a monk who was hitchhiking. He walked several hours from his monastery in order to pick flowers to make an offering. We spent a great deal of time asking him questions about his life as a monk and then took him to lunch to continue our inquisition. He invited us back to his monastery and arranged special permission for us to come inside and have tea in his room. He even took us see temples that we couldn't have seen without him to accompany us. When we left he told us we would pray for our safe journey when we left Bhutan. This was a comforting thought when we left two days later on our DrukAir flight to Bangkok.
Bhutan - November 25, 1999
Source: Chakmakian Consulting
~ Karen's photo Link
Tashi Delek,
I was fortunate to start my trip to Bhutan with a flight from Kathmandu. What a spectacular way to begin this incredible adventure! For virtually the entire flight, my eyes were glued to the dramatic sharp snowcapped peaks of the Himalayas. I also got my first glimpse of the amazing Mr. Everest.
I was impressed from the moment I stepped off the plane. The outside of the airport was painted very decoratively, and had a distinctive architectural design. I quickly learned that this is just traditional Bhutanese architecture. The countryside throughout Bhutan is scattered with these beautiful, intricately painted buildings, including the post office and bus terminal!
The traditional clothing was also immediately noticeable. Bhutanese are required to wear the national dress, which is made from local textiles in a variety of colorful patterns. The men wear a Gho, a tightly belted robe to just below the knee. It is often a plaid or striped design similar to a Scottish tartan. Women wear a Kira, a long, floor-length dress with a silk blouse underneath and jacket over the top. This is a large rectangular piece of fabric that wraps around the body, with hooks near the shoulders and a tight belt around the waist to hold it in place. It is eye-catching to see so many people wearing these distinctive, brightly colored costumes.
Bhutan is the most unique country I've visited. It is small and rural, about the size of Switzerland, with a population of a little over 600,000. It is bordered on the northwest by Tibet; the rest of the country is surrounded by India. I've met a lot of people who have not yet heard of Bhutan. It has been a well-kept secret. The Bhutanese say they live on their own "Roof of the World" and have kept to themselves for hundreds of years.
Bhutan first started allowing visitors in the 1970's, but has maintained a controlled philosophy with regards to tourism. Through a system of a high visitor price per day, the government has been able to limit the number of tourists and their length of stay. This is fortunate, as the country has been able to slowly build infrastructure for tourism in a way that is not spoiling the country's intrinsic beauty and culture.
Western Bhutan and the King's BirthdayWe arrived in the capital of Thimpu just in time for the week-long celebration of the King's birthday. There was constant activity going on in the town, the streets were closed to car traffic and the second-ever firework show was held. It was a very exciting week in Thimpu. The first firework show was held only five months earlier for the celebration of the King's 25th year. At the same time both television and the Internet were introduced to the country!
Shortly after arriving in Thimpu, I experienced the Bhutanese medical system. Like many people, I've always had some level of anxiety about needing to receive medical care outside of my own country. Fortunately, I only had an ear infection and it turned out to be a fairly pleasant experience. The doctors were very kind and they brought a specialist in to see me even though he was supposed to be on vacation. The most interesting part, coming from a country where medical costs are considered very high, is that health care in Bhutan is free for everyone, including visitors!
Traveling EastAlthough my time spent in the capital of Thimpu was enjoyable, traveling through the country to Eastern Bhutan, and attending a religious festival, was by far the most interesting. The scenery throughout the country is spectacular. It is very mountainous with thick green forests and the hillsides are scattered with beautiful, traditional Bhutanese buildings. Each district has a Dzong, a large white fortress-monastery that is absolutely stunning and dominates the hill on which it is built.
The Bhutanese are known for their hospitality and my travel companions and I experienced it everywhere we went. We were constantly invited into homes for tea. Many Bhutanese joke about their homes having "revolving doors" as people are constantly in and out of each other's homes.
Eastern Bhutan and the Mongar TsechuThe Buddhist faith plays a fundamental role in the lives of the Bhutanese people and there are many religious festivals. The best-known festivals are the Tsechus, which are held at different times of the year in different locations. Tsechus are celebrated for three to five days with both monks and laymen taking part in ritual mask dances. These mask dances date back many centuries.
We had the good fortune of attending a Tsechu in Mongar, a town in Eastern Bhutan. It was the highlight of the trip. Our trip organizer arranged for us to meet the governor of Mongar and have tea in his home the day before the festival began. Our good luck kept getting better as he invited us to a private ceremony in the Mongar monastery at 3:00am that next morning! Through the cool darkness, we followed a procession of government and religious officials from his home to the monastery for a surreal and somewhat mysterious two hour ceremony. When it ended, we followed the procession back to his home, led by about 20 young girls singing with the most beautiful voices that echoed off of the hills. My memories of this night are still very calming and dreamlike.
The mask dances performed at the festival during the next three days were spectacular! The costumes are so intricate and colorful and the dances are very medieval. These dances have been performed for many centuries to educate the people about Buddhist beliefs regarding the life and death cycle. It is also believed that onlookers receive merit by attending the festivals. The last morning of the festival, a gorgeous religious picture painted on fabric, called a thangka, was unrolled. It was so huge; it covered the entire side of the monastery.
Since Mongar is a very small town with minimal hotel facilities, the governor arranged for us to camp on the archery field during our three nights there. This also turned out to be an interesting experience because many of the villagers had to walk right through our campsite to get to the festival and to the town. We had many curious children coming by to look at us and peer into our tents. They were the most entertained when our guides helped dress us outside our tents each morning. Putting on a Bhutanese Kira and Gho is not an easy task!
Traveling WestDuring the next several days, our drive west back to the capital brought a number of additional interesting experiences. The most memorable was picking up a monk who was hitchhiking. He walked several hours from his monastery in order to pick flowers to make an offering. We spent a great deal of time asking him questions about his life as a monk and then took him to lunch to continue our inquisition. He invited us back to his monastery and arranged special permission for us to come inside and have tea in his room. He even took us see temples that we couldn't have seen without him to accompany us. When we left he told us we would pray for our safe journey when we left Bhutan. This was a comforting thought when we left two days later on our DrukAir flight to Bangkok.
Travelogue Bhutan
Bhutan- visited in April 2006
Source: Art in All of Us
Sitting in humid grass and facing the "male" river of the Wangdu valley, I contemplate some blue stains in the sky. Mick Jagger is shouting in my ears some nostalgia. Houses of all colours decorate the towering hills. At the bottom-end of the valley, I can see rice fields in staircases (terrace) protected by the wild marijuana fields, recently watered by the heavy rains. It is funny to see marijuana growing over here, since Bhutan is probably the only country in the world where smoking tobacco is already considered as an offence. I was really in need of such a small moment of peaceful rest after crowded India and political unrests in Nepal. Sunset should be in one hour or so. I hope that the sun will offer me a pretty colourful exhibition since I have barely seen him these last days. I left the capital Thimphu under the morning rain for a school in the East of the country. To get to this beautiful blooming valley, we’ve had to drive through a pass of more than 11,000 feet high. My eyes prayed all the gods to receive the dramatic view praised by all guides and traveller’s guide books. Unfortunately, it was a snow storm that welcomed us up there and had us immobilized for some hours. We were stuck there, in the impossibility to go forward, let alone backward. I can only be patient, and dream of Stephanie left in the warmth of Kathmandu. My feet are almost naked, wearing only poor summer flip-flops… and I only have 4 t-shirts to cover my chest and knees. Having left Kathmandu with 90F, I didn't think to take warmer clothes. Hence, I close my eyes hoping that Orfée willl warm me up. However, within 10 minutes my shaking teeth wake me up. Fortunately enough, Buddha had some mercy and stopped the snow for a couple of minutes. The driver took advantage of it, and rushed towards the valley 7000 feet below, like an ice-skating ballerina. The road was not larger than a half dozen of small pigs. Our hero driver is sweating like a duck, but we eventually arrive at destination safely. However, it will not be possible to see the children today, because schools close early here in the region. It will be for the next day, if conditions are more favorable. Fortunately, I visited another school yesterday. It was full of smiles and some marvellous drawings and poetries were created. It was a delightful day for them … and me.The kingdom of Bhutan is ruled under a totally different way from most countries that I have visited. Religion and environment have a central function in everyone’s life. Tobacco isn’t legal in the country, neither are plastic bags… To illustrate such concerns, I have been requested of a special message to the world from a 9 years old yesterday, at the school: "please tell them to take care of the forest like we do". Indeed, this must be the only country that has been able to preserve its forests for centuries. If 60% of the country was green forest some 500 years ago, today they can still count on the same proportion of green areas.This country has never been colonized and has only undergone 4 short Tibetan invasions between the 12th and 19th century. A Buddhist monk whispered me proudly that his country´s development was maintained on purpose late, comparing to other countries, and they hear to remain like that. It enables them to learn from other countries’ mistakes and wisely and accordingly adjust to the best of the development of a couple of others picked up with care. They will never blemish their rich religious and cultural heritage …. Lesson to meditate….
Source: Art in All of Us
Sitting in humid grass and facing the "male" river of the Wangdu valley, I contemplate some blue stains in the sky. Mick Jagger is shouting in my ears some nostalgia. Houses of all colours decorate the towering hills. At the bottom-end of the valley, I can see rice fields in staircases (terrace) protected by the wild marijuana fields, recently watered by the heavy rains. It is funny to see marijuana growing over here, since Bhutan is probably the only country in the world where smoking tobacco is already considered as an offence. I was really in need of such a small moment of peaceful rest after crowded India and political unrests in Nepal. Sunset should be in one hour or so. I hope that the sun will offer me a pretty colourful exhibition since I have barely seen him these last days. I left the capital Thimphu under the morning rain for a school in the East of the country. To get to this beautiful blooming valley, we’ve had to drive through a pass of more than 11,000 feet high. My eyes prayed all the gods to receive the dramatic view praised by all guides and traveller’s guide books. Unfortunately, it was a snow storm that welcomed us up there and had us immobilized for some hours. We were stuck there, in the impossibility to go forward, let alone backward. I can only be patient, and dream of Stephanie left in the warmth of Kathmandu. My feet are almost naked, wearing only poor summer flip-flops… and I only have 4 t-shirts to cover my chest and knees. Having left Kathmandu with 90F, I didn't think to take warmer clothes. Hence, I close my eyes hoping that Orfée willl warm me up. However, within 10 minutes my shaking teeth wake me up. Fortunately enough, Buddha had some mercy and stopped the snow for a couple of minutes. The driver took advantage of it, and rushed towards the valley 7000 feet below, like an ice-skating ballerina. The road was not larger than a half dozen of small pigs. Our hero driver is sweating like a duck, but we eventually arrive at destination safely. However, it will not be possible to see the children today, because schools close early here in the region. It will be for the next day, if conditions are more favorable. Fortunately, I visited another school yesterday. It was full of smiles and some marvellous drawings and poetries were created. It was a delightful day for them … and me.The kingdom of Bhutan is ruled under a totally different way from most countries that I have visited. Religion and environment have a central function in everyone’s life. Tobacco isn’t legal in the country, neither are plastic bags… To illustrate such concerns, I have been requested of a special message to the world from a 9 years old yesterday, at the school: "please tell them to take care of the forest like we do". Indeed, this must be the only country that has been able to preserve its forests for centuries. If 60% of the country was green forest some 500 years ago, today they can still count on the same proportion of green areas.This country has never been colonized and has only undergone 4 short Tibetan invasions between the 12th and 19th century. A Buddhist monk whispered me proudly that his country´s development was maintained on purpose late, comparing to other countries, and they hear to remain like that. It enables them to learn from other countries’ mistakes and wisely and accordingly adjust to the best of the development of a couple of others picked up with care. They will never blemish their rich religious and cultural heritage …. Lesson to meditate….
AnthonyBhutan
April, 18th 2006
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)