Source: VOA News
By Steve Herman
Thimphu, Bhutan
21 May 2007
To the outside world the small Buddhist kingdom of Bhutan is regarded as a modern-day Shangri-La. Nestled along the eastern side of the Himalayas, wedged between Tibet and India, Bhutan sees few outsiders. And the country likes it that way as it attempts to preserve its fragile culture and ecology. That has prompted Bhutan to strictly regulate tourism. But as VOA's Steve Herman reports from Thimpu, it is possible for anyone with enough money and determination to visit.
Here people call their nation Druk Yul - land of the thunder dragon. The sights and sounds of its deep connection to Tibetan Buddhism are evident just about anywhere a visitor goes.
A religious musician, playing the jaling oboe, dressed in the traditional knee-length gown and huge white cuffs worn by most Bhutanese men is just one example of why this country the size of Switzerland is so appealing to travelers.
The country is permeated with fortresses, known as dzongs, and monasteries. The air is crisp and clean, the views of mountains breathtaking. What Bhutan lacks in high-end tourist infrastructure it makes up in courtesy, safety and cleanliness, especially compared to other major regional destinations.
Yet, Bhutan remains one of international tourism's best-kept secrets. It attracts less than 20,000 tourists a year, not including thousands more Indians, here on business or holiday, who do not need a visa to visit.
The head of the association representing Bhutan's 290 tour operators, Sonam Dorji, says the myth persists that the country is virtually off-limits to visitors. Tourists have been welcomed since 1974. But Dorji says there will be no attempt to undertake a mass-marketing campaign, unlike Bhutan's neighbors against which it competes for tourist revenue.
"By not marketing we still remain exclusive and a very mysterious country," he said. "We don't have any limits of arrivals. As long as they pay $180 per night, they are welcome."
That may sound like a steep price, but it includes accommodations, meals, guides and transportation.
Most visitors come for the trekking, bird watching or just to absorb the unique culture of this deeply religious and agrarian society. Many typical tourist pursuits, however, are off-limits, such as mountain climbing or recreational fishing. Local people consider their mountains sacred and inhabited by deities. Fishing for sport also violates religious sensibilities.
Dorji, head of the Association of Bhutanese Tour Operators, says religious values cannot be compromised in the name of increasing tourism.
"Buddhist religion overall is just like to protect even the environment, the sentient beings, all living beings. And we believe that even a tree has a soul. So that's the part which has influenced the tourism policy," added Dorji.
There is a fierce determination here to protect the environment. After all, it is natural resources which provide Bhutan with its primary source of revenue - sales of hydro-electric power to its energy-hungry neighbor, India. Tourism is the top source of hard currency.
Although tourism officials say Bhutan can absorb tens of thousands more visitors per year, if they come during the off-season, there is a fear that making it less costly for outsiders to visit could easily swamp this country of less than 700,000 people.
"Being small, you cannot be careless. We cannot promote and develop normal type of tourism here because we simply do not have the carrying capacity. We have, yes, rich culture, living culture, ancient culture, but they're still very fragile," said former ambassador Lhatu Wangchuk, the director general of Bhutan's department of tourism.
Those who do visit are warmly welcomed. Wangchuk believes that is because experience with well-healed visitors, who tend to be older and highly educated, has had a "very positive" impact on Bhutanese people and their culture.
"It is the tourists who have been educating the Bhutanese. We get tourists who are well traveled, tourists who are very sensitive to other countries' culture, their way of life. And therefore we've been made more aware of the value of our own culture," continued Wangchuk.
But there is a bit of trouble in paradise. There are complaints that the modest number of trekkers are damaging Bhutan's environment, leaving behind litter and eroding habitat in a country where three-quarters of the land is unspoiled forest.
In the few cities, such as the capital of Thimpu, and Paro, where the main airport is located, packs of stray dogs wander the streets barking loudly at night and garbage disposal is an increasing problem.
But most Bhutanese, such as this elderly monk chanting Tibetan prayers on the sidewalk, remain unfazed by the modest number of outsiders and the potential benefits or problems they bring.
As Bhutanese are apt to exclaim, drawing on centuries of Buddhist wisdom, the only thing that is constant is change. They believe that their values and the wisdom of their enlightened leaders in a country now shifting from absolute monarchy to parliamentary democracy will prevail and allow their way of life to be preserved.
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Friday, June 1, 2007
Journey to The Land of the Dragon: Bhutan
Contributed by: Joshua G Shafran on 12/21/2006
Source: Boulder>YourHub
When does a significant travel moment occur? It is the instant when an experience remains as an indelible imprint, and lasts forever.
Trekking in Bhutan, this past November, was a continuous series of "travel moments." It was and remains a destination unlike any other.
The location, the people, their culture, lifestyle and the experiences I had there are very unique in adventure travel. For three weeks, I trekked with eleven other clients, two guides, thirteen support staff and thirty-one Mongolian pack ponies through villages, towns, cities and on outback yak trader trails. We experienced the complexity and beauty of what has been called, "...the last Buddhist Kingdom, or Druk Yal, The Dragon Kingdom."
Bhutan is a landscape of jungle and high mountains. It is about the size of Switzerland. The largest city, Thimphu, the capital, is about 50,000 people. The northern border is Tibet. The country is surrounded by regions of India. Nepal is west of Bhutan.
I traveled through a small area of the mountain region, on what is called the Chomolhari Trek. It is an ancient yak traders' route that varies from 7,500 feet altitude to a base camp at just above 13,000 feet. We hiked over 100 miles in nine days, and traversed over 50,000 vertical feet through undulating ups and downs. From our base camp we trekked up mountain passes to view some of the 20,000 plus foot peaks of this Himalayan region. Two of these mountains are spiritual locations called Chomolhari, and Jichu Drakye (both at 24,000 feet and above). No permits are granted by the Bhutanese government to climb these mountains. Many of the peaks, in fact, are unnamed.
The variety and beauty of the land is amazing. We started out in foothill forest and pasture land somewhat resembling Colorado foothills. We hiked past farmland that grows alternate crops of Bhutanese red rice and wheat. Beet, onion, potato, bean and corn was also seen being harvested. November is early to mid Fall in this region of Bhutan. No one appears hungry.
Their multi-generational homes are large, incorporating animals, people and storage in one structure on three levels.
We stopped in villages and visited schools. The kids seemed happy, and the teachers were engaged just like in our neighborhood schools. There are local elementary schools, where kids walk up to forty-five minutes to get there. Students travel further to high school. Education is demanded. Communication is not a problem for English speakers. Most people I met speak English. It is taught in public schools. There is over 90% literacy in Bhutan.
Our trek was an adventure. At our 13,000 foot base camp we experienced a two day mountain snow storm. Some higher mountain passes were blocked. Our guides arranged for us to stay with one of the mountain multi-generational families in the region.
Bhutanese people are graciously accepting of outsiders. Imagine opening your door to a dozen strangers for two nights. We were very fortunate to be welcomed, and taken in by a four generation family. It was a true lesson in just plain old fashioned human kindness. There was a lot of curiosity between our host family and the group. This was another "travel moment" that linked people to people.
Bhutan is a stunning country. When the snow storm cleared the blue high altitude sky, and white mountain peaks were humbling. It was the first time, I experienced 20,000 plus foot mountains. Not to take away from our Colorado 14ers, these mountains are expansive and immense in scale, size and grandeur. Talk about feeling small in relation to the rest of nature. This type of landscape truly reminded me of the concept of natural insignificance. This was a significant "travel moment."
Bhutan's social complexity is as convoluted a mosaic, as is the geography. From approximately 744A.D. to the present the country has evolved into a small, close knit group of people, tied together by a common set of complex Tantric Buddhist philosophy, beliefs and practices. We hiked to and visited a number of dzongs (fortress-like citadel temples), and monasteries used as schools for monks, taught by lamas (teachers). Our visits to one monastery, called Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest) was a spiritual "travel moment." It is here that Buddhism came to Bhutan.
Though the peoples' religion is ancient, a 21st century way of life is evolving quite rapidly. This is experienced in most places. The same people who herd Yaks, use outhouses, have minimal running water and grow most food on family plots, have solar voltaic systems, and occasionally have satellite dishes . In cities internet cafes are available. While some aspects of life seem very high tech, there are other patterns of life that border on very ancient social practices.
Between two major cities, Paro and Thimphu, the connecting mountain road is being expanded. Here was a "travel moment." Bhutan workers are not building the road. The labor force for this road work is imported from Bangladesh.
As we drove by in the comfort of a new Nissan van, we saw these workers labor by hand on the highway. Women use dangerous looking roadside equipment to grind large granite blocks into gravel for the roadbed. Shirtless, the men shovel gravel and sand, and steamy vats of asphalt/tar is mixed, to be spread by hand power over the roadbed, to be graded and flattened by old looking roller machines. The workers live by the road they are working on. As we drove into Thimphu at sunset we saw workers going home to their temporary housing carrying wood for heat and cooking. We were told by our local guide that their lives were better than they would have in Bangladesh. Obviously our western concept of life and labor practices has not entered this part of our world. We were told this outsourcing for labor is good for Bhutan, and is good for Bangladesh. I have not been to Bangladesh to judge this comment, though I remain with obvious questions. This is one example of a culture where the King has decided how "to play the world" for the good of his people.
He has decided how to accept or not accept assistance and advise from other countries. I learned that the King, with his advisors, make the decisions. For example he has been able to "play" the Chinese and Indian "cards."
For example, during our mountain trek we visited Indian soldiers, at Indian military outposts, stationed in Bhutan, guarding the Bhutan region from India. We hiked past trail junctions that lead to Tibet, and met Tibetan and Bhutanese traders peacefully practicing commerce between the two regions. Officially we were told that China has no formal trade relations with Bhutan. All packaged goods sold in general stores in Bhutan is labeled, "made in India."
This is all scheduled to evolve with general democratic elections by 2008. Recently the King passed his authority to his eldest son. The King is "loved" by the people. They have been comfortable with their King/people relations. They are concerned about community based decision process, we call democracy, and that we take for granted.
Discussing, with the locals, the potential and process of local decision making was a wonderful part my "travel moments." Since they have no experience with democracy the people do not know what democratic practices will mean to their lives. Only those Bhutanese who have studied in other countries like ours have experience with democracy first hand. It will be interesting to observe what happens, and what direction this social evolution will take.
The interaction between tourist and locals is having an enormous influence on this once isolated country. Lessons were learned, and information between cultures was exchanged. This was the true "travel moment"; the experience of the democratization of a country through open communication, between tourist and local. A last "travel moment" comment...The Bhutanese King is planning for governmental democratic change...the people are doing this through their interaction with one group of "invaders" tourists...once again the people change faster than government ...without possibly knowing it the government has to catch up to the people.
The land, culture, society, and people of Bhutan are beautiful. They are kind, gracious, sensitive, compassionate, open, fair-minded and committed. Their world is changing fast. The "travel moments" I left with from this adventure will significantly remain for a lifetime.
Source: Boulder>YourHub
When does a significant travel moment occur? It is the instant when an experience remains as an indelible imprint, and lasts forever.
Trekking in Bhutan, this past November, was a continuous series of "travel moments." It was and remains a destination unlike any other.
The location, the people, their culture, lifestyle and the experiences I had there are very unique in adventure travel. For three weeks, I trekked with eleven other clients, two guides, thirteen support staff and thirty-one Mongolian pack ponies through villages, towns, cities and on outback yak trader trails. We experienced the complexity and beauty of what has been called, "...the last Buddhist Kingdom, or Druk Yal, The Dragon Kingdom."
Bhutan is a landscape of jungle and high mountains. It is about the size of Switzerland. The largest city, Thimphu, the capital, is about 50,000 people. The northern border is Tibet. The country is surrounded by regions of India. Nepal is west of Bhutan.
I traveled through a small area of the mountain region, on what is called the Chomolhari Trek. It is an ancient yak traders' route that varies from 7,500 feet altitude to a base camp at just above 13,000 feet. We hiked over 100 miles in nine days, and traversed over 50,000 vertical feet through undulating ups and downs. From our base camp we trekked up mountain passes to view some of the 20,000 plus foot peaks of this Himalayan region. Two of these mountains are spiritual locations called Chomolhari, and Jichu Drakye (both at 24,000 feet and above). No permits are granted by the Bhutanese government to climb these mountains. Many of the peaks, in fact, are unnamed.
The variety and beauty of the land is amazing. We started out in foothill forest and pasture land somewhat resembling Colorado foothills. We hiked past farmland that grows alternate crops of Bhutanese red rice and wheat. Beet, onion, potato, bean and corn was also seen being harvested. November is early to mid Fall in this region of Bhutan. No one appears hungry.
Their multi-generational homes are large, incorporating animals, people and storage in one structure on three levels.
We stopped in villages and visited schools. The kids seemed happy, and the teachers were engaged just like in our neighborhood schools. There are local elementary schools, where kids walk up to forty-five minutes to get there. Students travel further to high school. Education is demanded. Communication is not a problem for English speakers. Most people I met speak English. It is taught in public schools. There is over 90% literacy in Bhutan.
Our trek was an adventure. At our 13,000 foot base camp we experienced a two day mountain snow storm. Some higher mountain passes were blocked. Our guides arranged for us to stay with one of the mountain multi-generational families in the region.
Bhutanese people are graciously accepting of outsiders. Imagine opening your door to a dozen strangers for two nights. We were very fortunate to be welcomed, and taken in by a four generation family. It was a true lesson in just plain old fashioned human kindness. There was a lot of curiosity between our host family and the group. This was another "travel moment" that linked people to people.
Bhutan is a stunning country. When the snow storm cleared the blue high altitude sky, and white mountain peaks were humbling. It was the first time, I experienced 20,000 plus foot mountains. Not to take away from our Colorado 14ers, these mountains are expansive and immense in scale, size and grandeur. Talk about feeling small in relation to the rest of nature. This type of landscape truly reminded me of the concept of natural insignificance. This was a significant "travel moment."
Bhutan's social complexity is as convoluted a mosaic, as is the geography. From approximately 744A.D. to the present the country has evolved into a small, close knit group of people, tied together by a common set of complex Tantric Buddhist philosophy, beliefs and practices. We hiked to and visited a number of dzongs (fortress-like citadel temples), and monasteries used as schools for monks, taught by lamas (teachers). Our visits to one monastery, called Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest) was a spiritual "travel moment." It is here that Buddhism came to Bhutan.
Though the peoples' religion is ancient, a 21st century way of life is evolving quite rapidly. This is experienced in most places. The same people who herd Yaks, use outhouses, have minimal running water and grow most food on family plots, have solar voltaic systems, and occasionally have satellite dishes . In cities internet cafes are available. While some aspects of life seem very high tech, there are other patterns of life that border on very ancient social practices.
Between two major cities, Paro and Thimphu, the connecting mountain road is being expanded. Here was a "travel moment." Bhutan workers are not building the road. The labor force for this road work is imported from Bangladesh.
As we drove by in the comfort of a new Nissan van, we saw these workers labor by hand on the highway. Women use dangerous looking roadside equipment to grind large granite blocks into gravel for the roadbed. Shirtless, the men shovel gravel and sand, and steamy vats of asphalt/tar is mixed, to be spread by hand power over the roadbed, to be graded and flattened by old looking roller machines. The workers live by the road they are working on. As we drove into Thimphu at sunset we saw workers going home to their temporary housing carrying wood for heat and cooking. We were told by our local guide that their lives were better than they would have in Bangladesh. Obviously our western concept of life and labor practices has not entered this part of our world. We were told this outsourcing for labor is good for Bhutan, and is good for Bangladesh. I have not been to Bangladesh to judge this comment, though I remain with obvious questions. This is one example of a culture where the King has decided how "to play the world" for the good of his people.
He has decided how to accept or not accept assistance and advise from other countries. I learned that the King, with his advisors, make the decisions. For example he has been able to "play" the Chinese and Indian "cards."
For example, during our mountain trek we visited Indian soldiers, at Indian military outposts, stationed in Bhutan, guarding the Bhutan region from India. We hiked past trail junctions that lead to Tibet, and met Tibetan and Bhutanese traders peacefully practicing commerce between the two regions. Officially we were told that China has no formal trade relations with Bhutan. All packaged goods sold in general stores in Bhutan is labeled, "made in India."
This is all scheduled to evolve with general democratic elections by 2008. Recently the King passed his authority to his eldest son. The King is "loved" by the people. They have been comfortable with their King/people relations. They are concerned about community based decision process, we call democracy, and that we take for granted.
Discussing, with the locals, the potential and process of local decision making was a wonderful part my "travel moments." Since they have no experience with democracy the people do not know what democratic practices will mean to their lives. Only those Bhutanese who have studied in other countries like ours have experience with democracy first hand. It will be interesting to observe what happens, and what direction this social evolution will take.
The interaction between tourist and locals is having an enormous influence on this once isolated country. Lessons were learned, and information between cultures was exchanged. This was the true "travel moment"; the experience of the democratization of a country through open communication, between tourist and local. A last "travel moment" comment...The Bhutanese King is planning for governmental democratic change...the people are doing this through their interaction with one group of "invaders" tourists...once again the people change faster than government ...without possibly knowing it the government has to catch up to the people.
The land, culture, society, and people of Bhutan are beautiful. They are kind, gracious, sensitive, compassionate, open, fair-minded and committed. Their world is changing fast. The "travel moments" I left with from this adventure will significantly remain for a lifetime.
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