Monday, January 21, 2008

Land of Gross National Happiness

Source: TravelPod

Well, that was a big transition! From steamy Indonesia to the chilly Himalayas. One day in Bangkok in between to get organized, then off on Druk Air to Bhutan with a stop in Calcutta on the way (that really looked steamy!)Because you have to visit Bhutan through a travel agent (I went through a Bhutanese one) you are never really on your own. I had a driver (Tshewang) and a guide (Jamyang) with me all the time. This is true whether you are alone or in a big group. And, since you pay up front, you don't need to buy any meals, so it was pretty easy. So, I feel like I lucked out. The owner of the travel agency, Kesang, is a wonderful person. She has a guesthouse next to her house where I stayed in Thimpu, which was great because I got to hang out with her family for long dinners. The english spoken here is amazing since kids are taught in it as a first language in school. So they are well set up for scholarships abroad. Most people you meet have done some kind of university overseas.

I had 11 days, and ended up visiting a few towns, spending a couple days in each place. the architecture here is beautiful, and the scenery amazing. We had beautiful sunny days, but it is freezing at night. Not a straight road in the whole country so you are constantly twisting and turning and going up and over high mountain passes. Since Buddhism is so strong here, I spent alot of time at temples and monestaries, which also doubled as fortresses when they were built 400 years ago. I went to a Crane festival first, in Pobjikha, which celebrates the return of the Black Necked Crane. We stayed in an OLD Farmhouse guesthouse which was alot of fun. Then a six hour drive up to Bhumthang which is a valley full of very old temples and a good beer called Red Panda. Speaking of beer, you know how I like to sample the local specials, the big drink in Bhutan is ara, like sake. They drink it warmed up, sometimes with a cooked egg in it to less the bitterness. They also LOVE chilies here. It is not considered a spice, it is a vegetable. Chilies and cheese, the national dish...with some local red rice it is delicious, even though your mouth is on FIRE!

The people in Bhutan are wonderful, so nice, incredibly hospitable, the kind of people you wish would come visit you so you could have a chance to repay their kindness. I really was sad to leave, and have been convinced that I need to come back in Spring 2008 for a trek and the crown prince's coronation...any takers?

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