Journey to The Land of the Dragon: Bhutan

Contributed by: Joshua G Shafran on 12/21/2006
Source: Boulder>YourHub

When does a significant travel moment occur? It is the instant when an experience remains as an indelible imprint, and lasts forever.
Trekking in Bhutan, this past November, was a continuous series of "travel moments." It was and remains a destination unlike any other.
The location, the people, their culture, lifestyle and the experiences I had there are very unique in adventure travel. For three weeks, I trekked with eleven other clients, two guides, thirteen support staff and thirty-one Mongolian pack ponies through villages, towns, cities and on outback yak trader trails. We experienced the complexity and beauty of what has been called, "...the last Buddhist Kingdom, or Druk Yal, The Dragon Kingdom."
Bhutan is a landscape of jungle and high mountains. It is about the size of Switzerland. The largest city, Thimphu, the capital, is about 50,000 people. The northern border is Tibet. The country is surrounded by regions of India. Nepal is west of Bhutan.
I traveled through a small area of the mountain region, on what is called the Chomolhari Trek. It is an ancient yak traders' route that varies from 7,500 feet altitude to a base camp at just above 13,000 feet. We hiked over 100 miles in nine days, and traversed over 50,000 vertical feet through undulating ups and downs. From our base camp we trekked up mountain passes to view some of the 20,000 plus foot peaks of this Himalayan region. Two of these mountains are spiritual locations called Chomolhari, and Jichu Drakye (both at 24,000 feet and above). No permits are granted by the Bhutanese government to climb these mountains. Many of the peaks, in fact, are unnamed.
The variety and beauty of the land is amazing. We started out in foothill forest and pasture land somewhat resembling Colorado foothills. We hiked past farmland that grows alternate crops of Bhutanese red rice and wheat. Beet, onion, potato, bean and corn was also seen being harvested. November is early to mid Fall in this region of Bhutan. No one appears hungry.
Their multi-generational homes are large, incorporating animals, people and storage in one structure on three levels.
We stopped in villages and visited schools. The kids seemed happy, and the teachers were engaged just like in our neighborhood schools. There are local elementary schools, where kids walk up to forty-five minutes to get there. Students travel further to high school. Education is demanded. Communication is not a problem for English speakers. Most people I met speak English. It is taught in public schools. There is over 90% literacy in Bhutan.
Our trek was an adventure. At our 13,000 foot base camp we experienced a two day mountain snow storm. Some higher mountain passes were blocked. Our guides arranged for us to stay with one of the mountain multi-generational families in the region.
Bhutanese people are graciously accepting of outsiders. Imagine opening your door to a dozen strangers for two nights. We were very fortunate to be welcomed, and taken in by a four generation family. It was a true lesson in just plain old fashioned human kindness. There was a lot of curiosity between our host family and the group. This was another "travel moment" that linked people to people.
Bhutan is a stunning country. When the snow storm cleared the blue high altitude sky, and white mountain peaks were humbling. It was the first time, I experienced 20,000 plus foot mountains. Not to take away from our Colorado 14ers, these mountains are expansive and immense in scale, size and grandeur. Talk about feeling small in relation to the rest of nature. This type of landscape truly reminded me of the concept of natural insignificance. This was a significant "travel moment."
Bhutan's social complexity is as convoluted a mosaic, as is the geography. From approximately 744A.D. to the present the country has evolved into a small, close knit group of people, tied together by a common set of complex Tantric Buddhist philosophy, beliefs and practices. We hiked to and visited a number of dzongs (fortress-like citadel temples), and monasteries used as schools for monks, taught by lamas (teachers). Our visits to one monastery, called Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest) was a spiritual "travel moment." It is here that Buddhism came to Bhutan.
Though the peoples' religion is ancient, a 21st century way of life is evolving quite rapidly. This is experienced in most places. The same people who herd Yaks, use outhouses, have minimal running water and grow most food on family plots, have solar voltaic systems, and occasionally have satellite dishes . In cities internet cafes are available. While some aspects of life seem very high tech, there are other patterns of life that border on very ancient social practices.
Between two major cities, Paro and Thimphu, the connecting mountain road is being expanded. Here was a "travel moment." Bhutan workers are not building the road. The labor force for this road work is imported from Bangladesh.
As we drove by in the comfort of a new Nissan van, we saw these workers labor by hand on the highway. Women use dangerous looking roadside equipment to grind large granite blocks into gravel for the roadbed. Shirtless, the men shovel gravel and sand, and steamy vats of asphalt/tar is mixed, to be spread by hand power over the roadbed, to be graded and flattened by old looking roller machines. The workers live by the road they are working on. As we drove into Thimphu at sunset we saw workers going home to their temporary housing carrying wood for heat and cooking. We were told by our local guide that their lives were better than they would have in Bangladesh. Obviously our western concept of life and labor practices has not entered this part of our world. We were told this outsourcing for labor is good for Bhutan, and is good for Bangladesh. I have not been to Bangladesh to judge this comment, though I remain with obvious questions. This is one example of a culture where the King has decided how "to play the world" for the good of his people.
He has decided how to accept or not accept assistance and advise from other countries. I learned that the King, with his advisors, make the decisions. For example he has been able to "play" the Chinese and Indian "cards."
For example, during our mountain trek we visited Indian soldiers, at Indian military outposts, stationed in Bhutan, guarding the Bhutan region from India. We hiked past trail junctions that lead to Tibet, and met Tibetan and Bhutanese traders peacefully practicing commerce between the two regions. Officially we were told that China has no formal trade relations with Bhutan. All packaged goods sold in general stores in Bhutan is labeled, "made in India."
This is all scheduled to evolve with general democratic elections by 2008. Recently the King passed his authority to his eldest son. The King is "loved" by the people. They have been comfortable with their King/people relations. They are concerned about community based decision process, we call democracy, and that we take for granted.
Discussing, with the locals, the potential and process of local decision making was a wonderful part my "travel moments." Since they have no experience with democracy the people do not know what democratic practices will mean to their lives. Only those Bhutanese who have studied in other countries like ours have experience with democracy first hand. It will be interesting to observe what happens, and what direction this social evolution will take.
The interaction between tourist and locals is having an enormous influence on this once isolated country. Lessons were learned, and information between cultures was exchanged. This was the true "travel moment"; the experience of the democratization of a country through open communication, between tourist and local. A last "travel moment" comment...The Bhutanese King is planning for governmental democratic change...the people are doing this through their interaction with one group of "invaders" tourists...once again the people change faster than government ...without possibly knowing it the government has to catch up to the people.
The land, culture, society, and people of Bhutan are beautiful. They are kind, gracious, sensitive, compassionate, open, fair-minded and committed. Their world is changing fast. The "travel moments" I left with from this adventure will significantly remain for a lifetime.