By: Anthony
Bhutan April, 18th 2006
Source: Art in all of us
Sitting in humid grass and facing the "male" river of the Wangdu valley, I contemplate some blue stains in the sky. Mick Jagger is shouting in my ears some nostalgia. Houses of all colours decorate the towering hills. At the bottom-end of the valley, I can see rice fields in staircases (terrace) protected by the wild marijuana fields, recently watered by the heavy rains. It is funny to see marijuana growing over here, since Bhutan is probably the only country in the world where smoking tobacco is already considered as an offence.
I was really in need of such a small moment of peaceful rest after crowded India and political unrests in Nepal. Sunset should be in one hour or so. I hope that the sun will offer me a pretty colourful exhibition since I have barely seen him these last days. I left the capital Thimphu under the morning rain for a school in the East of the country. To get to this beautiful blooming valley, we’ve had to drive through a pass of more than 11,000 feet high. My eyes prayed all the gods to receive the dramatic view praised by all guides and traveller’s guide books. Unfortunately, it was a snow storm that welcomed us up there and had us immobilized for some hours. We were stuck there, in the impossibility to go forward, let alone backward. I can only be patient, and dream of Stephanie left in the warmth of Kathmandu. My feet are almost naked, wearing only poor summer flip-flops… and I only have 4 t-shirts to cover my chest and knees. Having left Kathmandu with 90F, I didn't think to take warmer clothes. Hence, I close my eyes hoping that Orfée willl warm me up. However, within 10 minutes my shaking teeth wake me up. Fortunately enough, Buddha had some mercy and stopped the snow for a couple of minutes. The driver took advantage of it, and rushed towards the valley 7000 feet below, like an ice-skating ballerina. The road was not larger than a half dozen of small pigs. Our hero driver is sweating like a duck, but we eventually arrive at destination safely.
However, it will not be possible to see the children today, because schools close early here in the region. It will be for the next day, if conditions are more favorable. Fortunately, I visited another school yesterday. It was full of smiles and some marvellous drawings and poetries were created. It was a delightful day for them … and me.
The kingdom of Bhutan is ruled under a totally different way from most countries that I have visited. Religion and environment have a central function in everyone’s life. Tobacco isn’t legal in the country, neither are plastic bags…
To illustrate such concerns, I have been requested of a special message to the world from a 9 years old yesterday, at the school: "please tell them to take care of the forest like we do". Indeed, this must be the only country that has been able to preserve its forests for centuries. If 60% of the country was green forest some 500 years ago, today they can still count on the same proportion of green areas.
This country has never been colonized and has only undergone 4 short Tibetan invasions between the 12th and 19th century.
A Buddhist monk whispered me proudly that his country´s development was maintained on purpose late, comparing to other countries, and they hear to remain like that. It enables them to learn from other countries’ mistakes and wisely and accordingly adjust to the best of the development of a couple of others picked up with care. They will never blemish their rich religious and cultural heritage …. Lesson to meditate…
Monday, January 28, 2008
Monday, January 21, 2008
Land of Gross National Happiness
Source: TravelPod
Well, that was a big transition! From steamy Indonesia to the chilly Himalayas. One day in Bangkok in between to get organized, then off on Druk Air to Bhutan with a stop in Calcutta on the way (that really looked steamy!)Because you have to visit Bhutan through a travel agent (I went through a Bhutanese one) you are never really on your own. I had a driver (Tshewang) and a guide (Jamyang) with me all the time. This is true whether you are alone or in a big group. And, since you pay up front, you don't need to buy any meals, so it was pretty easy. So, I feel like I lucked out. The owner of the travel agency, Kesang, is a wonderful person. She has a guesthouse next to her house where I stayed in Thimpu, which was great because I got to hang out with her family for long dinners. The english spoken here is amazing since kids are taught in it as a first language in school. So they are well set up for scholarships abroad. Most people you meet have done some kind of university overseas.
I had 11 days, and ended up visiting a few towns, spending a couple days in each place. the architecture here is beautiful, and the scenery amazing. We had beautiful sunny days, but it is freezing at night. Not a straight road in the whole country so you are constantly twisting and turning and going up and over high mountain passes. Since Buddhism is so strong here, I spent alot of time at temples and monestaries, which also doubled as fortresses when they were built 400 years ago. I went to a Crane festival first, in Pobjikha, which celebrates the return of the Black Necked Crane. We stayed in an OLD Farmhouse guesthouse which was alot of fun. Then a six hour drive up to Bhumthang which is a valley full of very old temples and a good beer called Red Panda. Speaking of beer, you know how I like to sample the local specials, the big drink in Bhutan is ara, like sake. They drink it warmed up, sometimes with a cooked egg in it to less the bitterness. They also LOVE chilies here. It is not considered a spice, it is a vegetable. Chilies and cheese, the national dish...with some local red rice it is delicious, even though your mouth is on FIRE!
The people in Bhutan are wonderful, so nice, incredibly hospitable, the kind of people you wish would come visit you so you could have a chance to repay their kindness. I really was sad to leave, and have been convinced that I need to come back in Spring 2008 for a trek and the crown prince's coronation...any takers?
Well, that was a big transition! From steamy Indonesia to the chilly Himalayas. One day in Bangkok in between to get organized, then off on Druk Air to Bhutan with a stop in Calcutta on the way (that really looked steamy!)Because you have to visit Bhutan through a travel agent (I went through a Bhutanese one) you are never really on your own. I had a driver (Tshewang) and a guide (Jamyang) with me all the time. This is true whether you are alone or in a big group. And, since you pay up front, you don't need to buy any meals, so it was pretty easy. So, I feel like I lucked out. The owner of the travel agency, Kesang, is a wonderful person. She has a guesthouse next to her house where I stayed in Thimpu, which was great because I got to hang out with her family for long dinners. The english spoken here is amazing since kids are taught in it as a first language in school. So they are well set up for scholarships abroad. Most people you meet have done some kind of university overseas.
I had 11 days, and ended up visiting a few towns, spending a couple days in each place. the architecture here is beautiful, and the scenery amazing. We had beautiful sunny days, but it is freezing at night. Not a straight road in the whole country so you are constantly twisting and turning and going up and over high mountain passes. Since Buddhism is so strong here, I spent alot of time at temples and monestaries, which also doubled as fortresses when they were built 400 years ago. I went to a Crane festival first, in Pobjikha, which celebrates the return of the Black Necked Crane. We stayed in an OLD Farmhouse guesthouse which was alot of fun. Then a six hour drive up to Bhumthang which is a valley full of very old temples and a good beer called Red Panda. Speaking of beer, you know how I like to sample the local specials, the big drink in Bhutan is ara, like sake. They drink it warmed up, sometimes with a cooked egg in it to less the bitterness. They also LOVE chilies here. It is not considered a spice, it is a vegetable. Chilies and cheese, the national dish...with some local red rice it is delicious, even though your mouth is on FIRE!
The people in Bhutan are wonderful, so nice, incredibly hospitable, the kind of people you wish would come visit you so you could have a chance to repay their kindness. I really was sad to leave, and have been convinced that I need to come back in Spring 2008 for a trek and the crown prince's coronation...any takers?
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